This is realy getting interesting, and for our profession it looks very important to get to the bottom of this I would inquire deeper on this subject some interesting sites, and maybe we could write to them for some questions (I will do it) http://www.kstr.lth.se/research/Wood/html/wood_res_area.htm http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Wood_and_Water.html http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1994/winan94a.pdf. http://www.nrc.ca/irc/cbd/cbd086e.html Elian ----- Original Message ----- From: <JIMRPT@AOL.COM> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 09:05 Subject: Re: removing key pins > > In a message dated 06/09/02 8:50:27 AM, elian_degen@cantv.net writes: > > << when I take it to my shop first thing I do is get the > > humidity level on what I know is the lower in the area I work. After > > hundreds of works I always noticed the same simptoms, and it always worked > > right >> > > Elian....first pin blocks and plain wood operate differently so lets separate > the two and just talk about plain wood......... > a screw in wood will get looser as wood dries but not because the hole is > getting larger...more likely because the taper of the screw has less wood to > hold on to as the thickness of the wood decreases......also as wood dries > hole shapes change from round to more oval shaped thereby presenting less > surface for the screw to grip. We force moisture laden wood to compress with > our screws and as the wood dries the screw dimensions don't change with the > change of dimensions in the wood....also the position of the screw does not > change with the change in dimensions of the wood...ergo we have what we > 'call' loose screws. > > You are correct in your procedure of tightening screws, but you are also > perpetuating the next cycle of 'loose screws' with a supposed symptom of > holes getting larger as they dry....... :-) > Jim Bryant (FL) >
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