Tuning the Duplex (was ...Capo)

Isaac OLEG oleg-i@wanadoo.fr
Tue, 3 Sep 2002 23:12:46 +0200


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Hello Roger, and all

I confirm that any time I've seen complains about duplex noises, or/and
duplex muted, the problem was :

Bad frame bedding robbing energy from the action or giving a too  noisy
tone.
Hammers hardened by use, not enough voicing, or big grooves in the crown.

A fast check of the regulation, plus a fast needling to allow for the lower
portions of the hammer to give strength to the tone, generally is enough.

Even if the string mating is not perfect, the strings are rusty or old, if
the hammers have some energy left (generally the case with Yamahas) , the
tone can be made acceptable for the customer, and what was noisy become
lively.

Regards.

Isaac OLEG

  -----Message d'origine-----
  De : owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]De la part de
jolly roger
  Envoye : mardi 3 septembre 2002 04:03
  A : pianotech@ptg.org
  Objet : Re: Tuning the Duplex (was ...Capo)


  Hi Jason,
                  Once the hammers start to get very hard on most Yamaha's,
the forward duplex starts to get very aggressive and zingy.  Reshape the
hammers if needed, and deep needle the shoulders, between 10-11 o'clock.
About 6 shots per shoulder at the start of the capo section, tapering to
about 2 or 3 in the top treble,
  If you reshape, remember to raise the hammer line to restore after touch.
So figure on a half days work, to shape, voice and touch up the regulation.
  Lifting all the strings in this section can also help minimize some of the
duplex noise.

  Regards Roger

  At 05:21 PM 9/2/02 -0700, you wrote:

    Gordon, thanks for the correction. I apologize for terminology slippage
after lo these many years (last time I tuned a duplex, it was when I was
restringing a Steinway in 1979, and I had the luxury of new pre-tuned
strings at a lower tension). The question remains:
    What's the current *best practice* regarding tuning of the duplex? Do
you routinely check and adjust? Can I just take a hammer and screwdriver and
tap it forward/back until it is in tune, and then tune the piano? Or is it
necessary to lower string tension first? Or should I use a different tool
such as a hammer shank to tap the bar?

    And next question: should I remove the muting felt from the c4-g4 area
of the duplex?

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
    To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 11:41 AM
    Subject: Re: Tuning the Capo


    | Sorry, Jason, but the "Capo Bar" is the solid bar cast
    | into the plate which provides the forward string
    | speaking length termination point, and downbearing for
    | the bridges ( as oppsed to the agaffes lower down the
    | scale ) I believe you are referring to the duplex
    | (or triplex) bars.
    |
    | --- Jason Kanter <jkanter@rollingball.com> wrote:
    | > Greetings, list. I have met a Yamaha C-series grand
    | > that I will be tuning next week. Took the ETD
    | > "voice-print", played it, and examined the action.
    | >
    | > This piano has a cap d'astro bar in both the treble
    | > and tenor sections. Owner complains that sometimes
    | > the piano has a "ring" that sounds almost like a
    | > telephone. I checked the tuning of the capo and they
    | > are all way off. The highest section, where the capo
    | > section is equal to the speaking section and
    | > therefore should be a unison, is off by more trhan a
    | > semitone. There is no place in the whole capo that
    | > is in tune. And there is muting string-braid-felt
    | > that has been inserted to quiet the lowest 7-8 notes
    | > of the capo (about c4 to g4).
    | >
    | > My question to you is: what's the current best
    | > practice regarding tuning of the capo? Do you
    | > routinely check and adjust? Can I just take a hammer
    | > and screwdriver and tap it forward/back until it is
    | > in tune, and then tune the piano? Or is it necessary
    | > to lower string tension first? Or should I use a
    | > different tool such as a hammer shank to tap the
    | > bar?
    | >
    | > And next question: should I remove the muting felt
    | > from the c4-g4 area of the capo?
    | >
    | > Inquiring minds want to know.
    | >
    | > Thanks in advance
    | >
    | >
    | > || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| ||
    | > |||
    | >  jason kanter * piano tuning * piano teaching
    | >  bellevue, wa * 425 562 4127 * cell 425 831 1561
    | >  orcas island * 360 376 2799
    | > || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| || ||| ||
    | > |||
    | >
    | >
    | >
    |
    |
    | __________________________________________________
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    |



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