Bridge Tops & Epoxy

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Gordon,
                  Raise your repair a notch by using new bridge pins, it's 
cheap and also looks prettier. It's amazing how many little false beats 
come from the little groove on the old bridge pin.
Regards Roger


At 04:54 PM 11/4/02 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi Terry,
>      I got fabulous results on my last bridge by
>1)Removing old graphite from bridge with little brass
>brush and lacquer thinner. 2) Pulling, then gluing in
>the pins with Epotek 301 and spreading the squeeze-out
>across the bridge top with a brush while wafting from
>afar with a heat gun to thin it ( all done in a very
>warm room, too, with very low humidity ).
>      When thoroughly dry and after soundboard
>finishing, etc., flatten out and take the "nose-shine"
>off the bridge top epoxy by scraping with the edge of
>a single edge razor. This is very easy and accurate.
>     When it is nice and flat and dull looking and
>uniform, take a pencil and rub it. The dulled epoxy
>LOVES graphite, and will soon be nice and shiny and
>silvery-black and neat! Looked first-class! A pencil
>is a lot easier to control than a brush with black
>stuff on it.
>      Thump
>
>--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > Task: New bridge tops or refurbished (new pins,
> > renotch). Our preference is to set the pins in epoxy
> > in either case. Some epoxy will ooze out the top of
> > the bridge pin hole. You need to clean that up. That
> > will mess up the nicely dagged top. Is painting the
> > dag on the bridge top AFTER installing bridge pins
> > the only way to do this? I'm such a sloppy artist
> > :-(    What to do?
> >
> > Terry Farrell
> >
> >
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