Bridge Tops & Epoxy

[gordon stelter]

The Epotek 301 is nearly water-thin to begin with, and
much harder when cured than West's ( which is great
for block fitting or soundboard cracks when used with
the colloidal silica and sawdust/coloring agents ). I
dropped a drop on a piece of 3/4" thick glass once.
When scraped off, it took out a crater!!!!!!
     Wafting over it with WARM (not hot!) air is to
make it even less viscous, so that it really
penetrates the bridge, and does not leave it looking
"candied". Yes, the bridge WILL look finished, perhaps
a bit more than if one used straight shellac: but
that's OK with me, when I consider that it is now
impervious to moisture, and is impregnated with a 
substance which, due to its denseness will transmit
vibrations beter than the wood itself. I like my work
to be neat, but maximum tonal production and
durability supercede cosmetic tradition, in my book.
     And if its still too shiny, I suppose one could
go at it with a gray Sctch-brite pad and brass detail
brushes for a "satin finish".
     Gordon

--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Heat activated? What exactly are you describing
> here.
> 
> Most any epoxy will cure more quickly when heated
> and most any epoxy will decrease in viscosity when
> heated. Are you describing something beyond that?
> 
> I use West System epoxy. I don't know exactly how
> the two viscosities compare. West System is about
> the same viscosity as most pancake syrups. I have
> used it on bridge pins with great success.
> 
> Terry Farrell
>   
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alan R. Barnard" <mathstar@salemnet.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 10:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Bridge Tops & Epoxy
> 
> 
> > Hmmm... very good. Gordon (or LIST), do you have a
> new source for Epotek
> > 301? McCall's is out of business now, and my
> stock, though refrigerated, is
> > pretty old. Are there other real-thin, heat
> activated epoxies out there?
> > 
> > Alan Barnard
> > Salem, MO
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 6:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: Bridge Tops & Epoxy
> > 
> > 
> > > Hi Terry,
> > >      I got fabulous results on my last bridge by
> > > 1)Removing old graphite from bridge with little
> brass
> > > brush and lacquer thinner. 2) Pulling, then
> gluing in
> > > the pins with Epotek 301 and spreading the
> squeeze-out
> > > across the bridge top with a brush while wafting
> from
> > > afar with a heat gun to thin it ( all done in a
> very
> > > warm room, too, with very low humidity ).
> > >      When thoroughly dry and after soundboard
> > > finishing, etc., flatten out and take the
> "nose-shine"
> > > off the bridge top epoxy by scraping with the
> edge of
> > > a single edge razor. This is very easy and
> accurate.
> > >     When it is nice and flat and dull looking
> and
> > > uniform, take a pencil and rub it. The dulled
> epoxy
> > > LOVES graphite, and will soon be nice and shiny
> and
> > > silvery-black and neat! Looked first-class! A
> pencil
> > > is a lot easier to control than a brush with
> black
> > > stuff on it.
> > >      Thump
> > >
> > > --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > > > Task: New bridge tops or refurbished (new
> pins,
> > > > renotch). Our preference is to set the pins in
> epoxy
> > > > in either case. Some epoxy will ooze out the
> top of
> > > > the bridge pin hole. You need to clean that
> up. That
> > > > will mess up the nicely dagged top. Is
> painting the
> > > > dag on the bridge top AFTER installing bridge
> pins
> > > > the only way to do this? I'm such a sloppy
> artist
> > > > :-(    What to do?
> > > >
> > > > Terry Farrell
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> _______________________________________________
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> > >
> > >
> > >
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