Hi Stephen, You have to move the piano out from the wall and use a rather large allen wrench to remove two bolts that hold the lid from moving back so that it can be removed. I regulary replace these with the correct bolt on a second visit so that one can use any wrench to remove the lid. Joe Goss imatunr@srvinet.com www.mothergoosetools.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Airy" <stephenairy@fastmail.fm> To: "Alan R. Barnard" <mathstar@salemnet.com>; "Piano Tech list - PTG" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 6:38 PM Subject: Re: Everett Pianos > If ya'll (no, I'm not southern unless you count Southern CA. :P) think > Everetts are good pianos, then one I regularly play once a month must > need some work. It's a 45" studio upright that seriously needs voicing > (very uneven - middle C is a dull thunk and F5 is extra bright, for > example) and the bass probably needs to be restrung/rescaled (the entire > bass is quieter and has an overall poor tone, especially the bottom > octave or so). I don't have the serial #, but it has a case similar to > Baldwin Hamiltons of the 60s to 70s (except this Everett is a darker wood > (maybe mahogany but I'm not sure)). The name isn't on the fallboard, and > I can't lift the lid (apparently it fastens on with an allen wrench, or > is locked on (it's in an institutional setting)), so the only way I know > it's an Everett is because a friend of mine who's an RPT (who afaik owns > the piano I think but am not sure) told me what it is. > > >> SNIP << > -- > Stephen Airy > stephenairy@fastmail.fm > > -- > http://fastmail.fm - Sent 0.000002 seconds ago > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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