David et al,
Yes I am talking about a NEW pin block. Synthetic Reducer is the thinner for
Phenolic Varnish Base, (w/o the driers!) I get mine from Rhodda Paints, in
Portland. Essentially, this stuff is the basis for Varnish with out the
driers, etc. Years ago, I had a small bottle of Trefz "Pin Driving Fluid".
For most of you, you do not know who/what Trefz was/were. It was a piano
supply house. Somewhat eclectic. They actually did rebuilding and had the
very best supplies in the industry. Some kids were playing on their loading
dock and set the place on fire! It more or less burned to the ground. :-(
But, I digress. I took the sample to the chemist at Rhodda Paints and he
ascertained that what the "Pin Driving Fluid" was, was a type of Phenolic
Varnish Resin w/o the driers. The olde code number for Rhodda is: #1067-S1.
As most of you probably don't have a Rhodda chem lab near you, I suspect you
will need to go to the VERY BEST PAINT MANUFACTURER near you. Contact THE
chemist, not the acne faced sales person. If you need a sample of the stuff,
it can be arranged.
What I do to "swab" the hole is: put about an inch of Pin Driving Fluid in a
Plastic pharmacy cup, ("dose" cup). Use a spinet hammer shank. dip the shank
in the fluid, let drip out and SWAB the hole.
The whole idea is to lubricate and (this IMHO is far more important), SEAL
the pin block! (Hence my reason for NOT drilling all the way through a pin
block. I use a brad point drill and just slightly dimple the bottom of the
block, to relieve the hydaulic pressure.)
I personally have used rosin, talc and all the other stuff that others
espouse. I personally don't like them, as they tend to be inconsistant. I
want as consistant a pin feel as possible. With Pin Driving Fluid, I achieve
a better consistancy of torque. Get this straight: with Pin Driving Fluid
you are NOT contaminating the block. Reason: The resin is made of wood
products!
When the pin driving fluid has dried, it IS rosin!<G> AND it does seal the
block from outside contaminants. (SMOG, Salt air, etc.) Most blocks I have
replaced, over the past 25-30years have shown that the failure was caused by
contaminants and/or poor constuction and drilling. When I put a new block
in, I hope to make it last a whole lot longer than the original. This is why
I take the time to do all of what some would say is unnecessary. My track
record stands for itself. NO pinblock that I have installed, (to date), has
failed. (period!)
Best regards,
Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)
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