In a message dated Tue, 14 May 2002 10:17:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "David Love" <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net> writes: >Yes and no. Glue generally operates best as a thin bonding layer. However, >hot hide glue does have good gap filling properties. Keep in mind, though, >I'm not talking about moving at the joint such that the hammer will fall off >the shank. I usually bore to exact shank size and ream slightly to fit with >a minimum amount of play. It would be nice if things were bored exactly. >But as careful as I am, with a fancy Renner boring jig, I still have the >slightest bit of correction to do sometimes. I don't really consider it a >problem and hot hide glue (not cold hide) fills that small gap very nicely. > >The thread also mentioned prebored hammers. I think it is important to bore >them yourself for replacement. Steinway has a standard bore that they use >and changes the angle only every 1.5 degrees. I can't remember a Steinway >that would have matched that standard bore distance exactly and if you want >a smoother fan without reaming, you will have to change the angles more >frequently. > >The message in this whole thread is really to bore them yourself. It's not >hard and not expensive to set up for it. Also, if you are doing tapering, >you will need to do it before tailing. Prebored hammers from Steinway also >come tailed. Prehung hammers are an even worse idea. Hanging distance will >frequently vary with moving strike points. All Steinway hammers a glued at >5 1/8". It won't always work. > >David Love > The same proceedure I use, I love the Renner boring jig but occasionally mess up, minor discrepencies fixed with a reamer. Another reason I bore my own is that string heights vary greatly from section to section sometimes 1/4 inch so I bore my hammers accordingly. David Koelzer DFW
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