Phil, Using a standard 20" shank clamp and 50 grit (or tired 36 grit)on a 4-6" air (or electric) right angle rotary grinder/sander, the entire operation of removing shank ends and perfectly shaping the tails is a dusty 10 minutes. Nicely squared to the back checks, no burn marks, felt lines that avoid the custom boring, and no checkering files needed. Under 50 bucks for the grinder/sander. 'Bout the same for the clamp. Air is a lot quieter. For more bucks a Roto-Zip with a right angle attachment works, and lets you see the progress easily, and can be used for lots of other stuff. (Basically a Dremel on steroids) Register for the rebuilding skills workshop in Chicago and see it again. Last year we dusted half the room! (and made a bit of noise, too..... sorry) I didn't invent this method, but I've used no other since. Guy Nichols, RPT Ft. Stinkin' Desert, NM At 04:22 PM 6/18/02 -0500, you wrote: >I would love to hear some of the methods for trimming excess grand shanks. >It's always been a struggle for me. I've used hand jigsaws, small drum >sanders, flexblades from Bill Spurlock, etc. Years ago I had a dremel rotary >saw blade that worked well, but it seems to be no longer available. How do >you do it? > >Thanks > >Phil Frankenberg >Chico Ca. "Things are more like they are now than they ever were before." -Former U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower
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