Thanks Tom. Yes, I agree - if replacing hammers, replace hammer, shank, knuckle, flange. In this particular case, I am trying to evaluate all components - all are OK, but I think replacement of any and/or all would result in much improvement. It's got to be her decision & I'm just trying to gather the best info to relate to her. I think the major thing here will be hammers: If she decides to replace them, then the whole top of the action gets replaced. Thanks to all that provided input. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Servinsky" <tompiano@gate.net> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 9:23 PM Subject: Re: Yamaha Flange Pinning > Terry, > If you are going to add hammers,do yourself a favor and install > shanks,knuckles, and flanges at the same time. > Seeing that this piano has been used by a serious player for many years, > the knuckles are going to need attention as well as the pinning. For the > time and effort you are better off replacing the shanks,flanges, and hammers > and the difference in control of touch and tone will be appreciated to a > higher degree. > Tom Servinsky,RPT > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 8:13 AM > Subject: Yamaha Flange Pinning > > > > 1979 Yamaha G3. Owner is an advanced classical player. > > > > She described a lack of control - action too light. DW seemed OK (didn't > > measure), but hammer flanges were down in the two-gram range. I > recommended > > either repinning or replacement. I've used alchohol/water to loosen a set > of > > bushings, but does that also work to increase friction? Or is that a > > technique best reserved for spinets - perhaps a nice Yamaha owned by a > good > > pianist needs a proper repinning??? > > > > Terry Farrell > > > > >
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