This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Thanks Jon. But why not set the pins before gluing the bar back in = place avoiding the glue problems and the side-of-the-case-in-the-way = problem. Actually, the pins have not migrated on this bar so I will = create a mylar pattern for the pin position and index it to the tuning = pins before taking off the bearing bar. I think I will make it out of = pin block material though, a few people made that suggestion and it = makes sense of course. =20 On another subject, are you installing soundboards? Are you making your = own or buying precrowned. If so, who are you getting them from. I'm = about to embark on soundboard replacement learning curve but have no = desire to start building them from scratch. =20 David Love ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jon Page=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: February 23, 2002 3:47 AM Subject: Re: Bass bearing bar At 06:16 PM 2/22/2002 -0800, you wrote: I have to remake a wooden bass bearing bar for an old upright = (tuning pin side). What is the correct angle that the grain should run? = Seems straight forward on appearance, any comments? =20 =20 David Love I made one from a scrap of pin block stock and stained it dark. Since the old one was split, there was no indexing the pins from that = one. All I could gather from it was length, width and height. With the bar removed, the old pin holes and torn wood can be filled = with epoxy. Scrape/sand this surface smooth to seat the new cap. Once the new piece was fashioned and before the bevels are cut, place = it in the piano, indexing it with bridge pins. Here's the tricky part:to locate the pins, replace the action and run = a thread from the bridge pin through the string cut in the hammer and mark it on the = bearing bar. After all the strings were marked, use a drafting divider to even = things off. First, measure the distance between the first and last single string = pins and divide by the number of strings (or spaces - too early to remember). Set the = divider to that number and verify if it is good, if not, readjust the span on the divider and = recheck. Once you come out even you can index the pins. Do the same on the double strings by measuring the distance between = the left strings of the ends. Map out the left string order, then average the distance for the right = string and index them off the divided left strings. Whew. Remove the counter bearing bar and drill the holes on a drill press = but do not go all the way through. When you epoxy it on, you don't want epoxy oozing up into the holes. = Bevel the cap now. Install the bar indexing it with the bridge pins. I used my sound = board press to apply pressure. Once set, drill the holes deeper for the pins. The lower singles = should be a shallow angle unless you have the side of the case off. Stain, a few coats of shellac, install = pins. Replace strings. Hope this helps, Regards, Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage@attbi.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/00/33/1c/16/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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