Roger, Thanks for the strategies - I'll let you know how things turn out! Respectfullly, Jon >Greeting Jon, > I doubt it, for two reasons. 1. The >rail is not very thick back there, so you can't make a significant >saw cut. 2. The action brackets and frame has a lot of influence >on the position and shape of the rail. >Remember these are very soft wood frames. > > Several solutions. > >Before starting, remove stack and keys, install the frame to pin >point where the problem is happening. ( Twisted action rails can be >the cause of the problem. ) I did not find that problem in 5 mins. >(Grin) >If the frame is now flat. you have a problem with action stack >bowing the frame. > >1. Shim the feet of the action brackets with veneer. To overcome the bowing. > >2. Shim the frame in the dag areas and sand for a good fit and good >unacoda operation. The dags will hold the frame down. > >3. If the frame is badly bowed, shim the underside of the crown >with veneer and sand to fit. > >4. Minor knocking just sand the back frame. > > >With Yamaha's I have bedded the back frame by changing the order of >bracket tightening. If it is knocking in the centre. Tighten the >outer brackets first, then the middle ones. If it knock's on the >outer area then tighten the centre brackets first. > >Fun and games. >regards Roger > > > Jon Ralinovsky Piano Technician Department of Music Miami University 513/529-6548
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