Just to clarify (Spelling Police, heads up), they are referring to cutting the glue bottle tip. Not anything on the piano. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe And Penny Goss" <imatunr@srvinet.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 10:41 PM Subject: Re: Loose Pins > Hi Carl, > Cut the tip at a slant so that the surface of the tip can rest against the > wood of the tuning pin bushing. Two things are now possible. You can stop > the flow of the CA by pressing against the wood and the glue container can > be held at a slant allowing more of the glue to be dispenced. > If you go straight in only two thirds of the CA will come out easily. > The CA will wick into the wood from above the pin, just go slow! > Joe Goss > imatunr@srvinet.com > www.mothergoosetools.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Carl Teplitski" <koko99@mb.sympatico.ca> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 7:03 AM > Subject: Re: Loose Pins > > > > Interested in your explanation for applying ca to loose pin without > > laying piano on its back. What was meant by cutting a hole in tip, > > if in fact that is what was said? I'm imagining drilling a hole alongside > > pin, in order to make a channel for ca to travel in. Obviously, having > > piano on its back to take advantage of gravity would be better, but for > > just a few pins, your method seems to make good sense. Could you please > > elaborate on type of cut you mean. > > > > Carl > > > > > > Joe And Penny Goss wrote: > > > > > Hi Tommy, > > > For just a few pins (presume that they have already been taped in) I > would > > > not lay the piano on its back. > > > You can treat the loose pins by cutting a very small hole in the tip at > a > > > 45% and place the tip directly on the wood of the bushing then > > > slooooooooooowly squeeze just as much as the wood will take without > running. > > > You should also work a rag under the strings where the CA might run > down. > > > If the glue does run stop and quickly remove the rag before it becomes a > > > part of the piano. > > > If the piano has been previously treated with CA it helps to raise and > lower > > > the pitch before treating the pin.This will open up a path for the glue > to > > > enter the pin hole. > > > I have several pianos that have held very well for 6 years and tune > almost > > > as tight as a new piano. I also do not use the kicker but let the glue > set > > > up on its own. > > > It usually tales about 10 minutes for the glue to set up enough to hold > then > > > it really cures and the next time you tune the pin that you have treated > you > > > will mostlikely need to break the pin loose by lowering the pitch first. > > > Afterwards it will tune very nicely. This is not recommended for other > than > > > the type piano that you are working on and still at best a fix not a > repair. > > > Joe Goss > > > imatunr@srvinet.com > > > www.mothergoosetools.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: <Bigeartb@AOL.COM> > > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 8:30 PM > > > Subject: Loose Pins > > > > > > > List: > > > > Thinking of treating a few loose pins in an old console with CA Glue. > > > Never > > > > done this before. Lay piano on back? Apply drops of glue around tuning > > > pin? > > > > How many drops? How long before I know it worked? Don't lay piano on > back? > > > Do > > > > we know how long this fix will last? > > > > Finally, rebuilding old action on el cheep-oh grand piano. > Replacing > > > > hammer shanks and flanges....kunckles larger than original....when > > > properly > > > > regulated what effect will this have on the feel of the instrument? > > > > Other than this everything seems O.K. As the song says I > > > need...Just A > > > > Little Help From My Friends. > > > > > > > > Tommy Black > > > > Decatur, Ala. > > >
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