FW: grooved capo on Baldwin L

[jolly roger]

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Hi John and Jeannie,
                              My choice would be to drop six strings at a
time, polish the capo shoe shine style with plumbers emery tape.  Now to
the acujust duplex section. Keep the strings high, (no bearing)  pull
almost to tension,  then use a small stright edge to make the strings level
with the others by tapping them down.   I have a small piece of brass bar
with a hole drilled in it to fit nicely over the pins.  But I have done the
job with a very blunt screwdriver.  If you go a little too far, (too much
bearing) Use a string hook and use the pin as a fulcrum, you can flex the
wire and remove up to 4-.005" of bearing.

Having about .010"  at the bottom of the treble going to .015" at the top
will usually give the best results. If you feel you are at the peak of a
humid cycle increase the bearing numbers by about .004"  This give a good
safety margin for when the board dries down.

I have enclosed a draft of a soon to be published article for you that may
help.

Roger


At 12:33 PM 9/3/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>
>Would anyone care to answer this for John?
>
>jeannie
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Deitra Tonyan" <d_tonyan@hotmail.com>
>To: <ptj@ptg.org>
>Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 2:18 AM
>Subject: grooved capo on Baldwin L
>
>
> My client has a Baldwin L ('79) with a grooved capo that is producing more
> vibrato than Cecilia Bartoli.
> If I roll the wire over each edge of the groove and then back to center,
>the
> false beat all-but disappears.
> However, since much of the treble section has this same problem, I would
> rather reshape the entire capo (as I do when rebuilding).
> The hitch (pardon the pun)is in the Accu-just pins:
> is there an efficient way of de-tensioning, reshaping the capo, and
> resetting downbearing? And how much time should I estimate for this labor?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help,
> John Tonyan R.P.T.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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