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Jon,
What size of sanding disk are you using? 4,5, or 6" disc.? I =
experimented with my 6" disk sander and there to many obstacles do deal =
with when keys have sharp bends ( high and low extremes of the =
keyboard). =20
How about grit grade? Any preferences?
Tom Servinsky,RPT
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Jon Page=20
To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: Keytop routing techniques
At 09:29 AM 10/14/2001 -0400, you wrote:
List,
Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I =
just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine. I =
acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.
The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way =
to route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with =
guide and some use a sanding disc.
What's the consensus out there?
Also what is the keytop cement of choice. I was introduced to using =
acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity =
consistently. Within 30 seconds the bond is strong. The downside is =
you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere =
near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred.
So bring it on. Would be interested in your comments on learning =
the tricks of the trade.
Tom Servinsky,RPT
For glue, I use PVC-E. This makes a flexible joint to allow for the =
different expansion and contraction rates of the joined materials.
Melting the keytop to the keystick with the acetone/plastic mixture =
may cause the keytop to crack when the wood expands with a
humidity increase while the plastic remains rigid.
The PVC-E glue also wipes off the surface without etching.
I prefer routing or filing the edges over the sanding disc. It is too =
easy to remove too much material with a sander.
Regards,
Jon Page, piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net
http://www.stanwoodpiano.com
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