This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment =20 I just wanted to put this out to the list.=20 As some of you know, I get to work on a whole lot of new pianos, and = there is something that's been bugging me for a while now. On just about every new Samick, and all their variants, I see the = same old mistakes being made at the factory concerning the = pedal-trapwork-damper systems, but especially on the really tiny little = baby grands. On every single one, when you depress the pedal, and then strike the = key, you will see no rise on the damper. If you depress the key, and = then operate the pedal, you will see the damper rise up above keydip. If = you depress the pedal, and then check the damper lift from there by = lifting up on the damper with your fingers, you will find that the = damper is jammed up against the rail. There is a capstan of sorts above = the trapwork, but it's really a screw, which you can't get to without = pulling out the trapwork lever; so you do this, screw out the screw = about 2 to 3 mms, put it all back together, only to find that it hasn't = made a bit of difference because it never was touching that screw to = begin with. So you do this about three times until you get it right. ( I = like to see the damper wink on the sharps, but not on the whites). Now you can set the up-stop rail above the dampers, so I pull the = action and every single time I look at those damper wires, the bends are = all over the place! No wonder most of the dampers are seating on the = right side of the strings. The holes drilled in the underlevers don't = seem to be uniform in the angle in which the wires go into the lever, = some of the wires are going in at a rather acute angle, which helps = account for some of the weird wire bends. Enough venting, what I want to know is; if a system has been in = place long enough, where the pedal jams the underlevers up until they = stop against the upstop rail, can't that possibly cause the pinning on = the underlever flanges to bend, causing them to start seizing up? I've = got a couple of customers with problems where you take out the dampers, = lift the underlever flange, and it just stays there, in spite of the two = big lead weights on it. I hit it with a dose of silicone oil/naptha mix, = but I wouldn't be surprised to find that the pin's bent. On the smaller one's, like their 4'7" model 400, they've been = putting plastic parts on their trapwork. Trouble is, all too often, when = you're pulling the trapwork off to adjust the "capstan", when you put it = back on, the bushing just falls out, because the glue they're using = doesn't adhere to plastic. Luckily, we have a Piano-Disc installer at = work, and I've been having him save me the same parts that are made of = wood, and I just replace them when that happens. I know they sell 'em cheap, but it doesn't really take any more time = to do it right the first time, as long as your workers have a clue as to = what's right, and what's not. That's one of the reasons I like Japanese pianos, it's in their = culture; to do it the wrong way would be to dishonor yourself and your = family. " I cut it twice, and it's still too short!" Kevin E. Ramsey, RPT ramsey@extremezone.com=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/3f/c5/65/5a/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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