Varnish and Tuning Pins

[Richard Brekne]

Thanks for the interesting reply Paul.  I havent tried the parabolic bits. Seem
to remember we had a nice long thread going not so long ago about different
drill bits. I have always used simple wood bits.. and changed them often to keep
them cool enough. I have this habit of takeing wayyyyy  to much time to do
certain jobs I suppose. Probably because I am primarily a service tech.. I do
have a new pinblock going in at the UiB soon tho.. I will have to give these a
try.
Paul wrote:

> Richard
>
> I've tried the varnish, not shellac, in the tuning pin holes in old
> pinblocks when restringing an upright for example, and on new pinblocks. It
> makes driving easier and the first turnings of the tuning pin easier-almost
> scary because the pins seems to turn too easy. After the varnish has dried,
> the pins are smoother,  with no "set" to them that makes them snap or jump.
> I've just switched to using parabolic drill bits which are designed for soft
> materials ( plastics, aluminum, some non-ferrous metals); and can carry
> heavy chip loads. In one pass they can carry 15 times their diameter in chip
> loads. That dimension is well beyond the thickness of the pinblock, thus
> allowing for a single plunge of the bit with no burning or scorching of the
> wood. The results are fewer strokes with a cooler bit, chips, and pinblock.
> I did not regrind the bit for wood. The factory grind has a relief angle
> that allows for faster chip removal. Works very well. I tested this style
> bit with dozens of holes drilled with standard twist drill holes and double
> drilling methods and found the result to be as good as the best techniques
> for drilling blocks, and much faster. These bits are available from
> machinery supply houses like MSC and McMaster Carr.(They have websites.)
> Anyone doing pinblocks, etc.should try them.
>
> Paul Chick

Richard Brekne
RPT, N.P.T.F.
Bergen, Norway
mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no