recommendations for piano buyer

[Mitch Ruth]

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Dave,

I have one of these Kohler & Campbells in my studio.  One major repair th=
at you will have to do is replace the faux buckskin on the backchecks (my=
 guess would be within 6 years) the felt that they use will shred and fly=
 all over the piano, leading the customer to ask "What's that yellow stuf=
f all over my hammers and in my piano?"  I have had some problem with bin=
ding center pins in various locations (this may be a result of insufficie=
nt climate control) and tuning instability (this may be a result of the l=
ump who is tuning it).

Because of the finish, we have named the instrument "Clifford, the Big Re=
d Piano".  Sadly he will go back to the dealer tomorrow and be replaced b=
y "Wurly, the Old Grand that my Partner Bought Without Me Looking at it F=
irst".  I smell adventures in regulation and repair coming...

The Samik is not a really bad piano for the price, but I thought it might=
 help you to give you some of the situations I have dealt with.  I don't =
really believe that the Korean piano will keep a great resale value, IMO.=
  But with a skilled tech around, it won't give her too much grief.

Mitch Ruth
DeMossville, KY

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Nereson
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 10:29 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: recommendations for piano buyer

To the list in general:
    This appraising, evaluating, and recommending which piano to buy gets
sticky sometimes.  A long time piano teacher customer of mine is thinking=
 of
buying a 1925 5' 8" Mason & Hamlin for around $9 or 10 thousand. It does
have a very nice tone, but there are 7 cracks in the soundboard (they don=
't
buzz; there's not much rib separation, they're not opened up, but they're
"there") and the board doesn't have any crown left.  (Has anybody ever
tightened the turnbuckles on the "spider", or tension resnator?  Does it
restore crown?  Or do you just not mess with it?).  The action's in prett=
y
good shape for its age, but I can see that after another filing or two,
it'll need new hammers, and probably in 10 or so years it'll also need
flange repinning, new knuckles or new shanks and flanges, and key rebushi=
ng.
Also it's got the two-piece jacks, some of which have been repaired or
reglued, so I know others will also start to click, break, or separate.  =
She
likes the tone, the touch, and the ivories, which are pristine.
    But for the same price ($10 K), she could get a brand new piano, even
though it's a Korean-made Kohler & Campbell.  To me, the tone isn't that
much different, and I checked the sustain time in the upper treble, and i=
t's
about the same (5 seconds, holding the damper for that note up and plucki=
ng
one string).  It's a stiffer touch, being new, but that should loosen up
some with breaking-in.
    Even though the M&H is prestigious and might sort of retain its value
because of the name, it's already 75 years old and will need major action
work in the next 2 or 3 decades, whereas the new K & C will just need min=
or
stuff (light hammer filing, screw tightening, regulation touch-up, voicin=
g)
and probably nothing major for at least 20 years.  And after that length =
of
time, the K & C will be worth maybe 2/3 what she paid for it while the M =
& H
will only be worth $5, 6, 7K (today's prices).  (?)
    Should I tell her to just buy the one she thinks sounds best in terms=
 of
tone, or should I tell her you're always better off buying a brand-new
instrument, even if it's not a high-end brand?   Thanks for any
pinions.  ----  Vascillating,  --Dave Nereson, RPT, DenverGet more from t=
he Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com

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