recommendations for piano buyer

[David Love]

Hi Dave:

I would not mess with the tension resonator.  It is not designed to restore
crown but rather to prevent the case from expanding outward thus flattening
the board.  If the has split all over the place and lost its crown, it is
probably on its own merit and should be replaced at the next stringing.

I would advise her what the piano needs to be brought to excellent condition
and the costs associated.  My approach in such situations is to provide as
much information as possible so that the customer can make an informed and
intelligent choice.  Even if they like the tone at first playing they may
not have spent enough time at it to really understand what the piano is all
about.  Once she gets it and practices for several hours, its shortcomings
may become more evident, so don't be afraid to offer opinions counter to her
first impressions.  If the piano is in original condition and showing
outward signs of deterioration, figure the costs for a new board, block,
restringing, and action.  If the jack tender joints are giving way and the
board is generously split and flat, it is a sign that other problems may
exist and band-aid repairs don't pay in the long run.  Total up the costs
and add it to the selling price.  If the total cost nets out at a price
beyond the value of the piano tell her that and let her decide.  If she gets
the piano for a good enough price and wants to take on the project of
restoring or remanufacturing it, as it were, then the price she buys it for
should be a mere reflection of restored value minus cost of repairs.  She
should be some type of value added credit for the risk she takes of having
the piano restored.

As for buying the alternative you present, I would say, don't be in such a
hurry.  There are a lot of fish in the sea.  You are making a major purchase
and do your research.  Play lots of pianos and spend some time at each one.
Play pianos well out of her price range so she has a mode of comparison on a
lesser piano.  I generally suggest that my clients hunting for new or used
pianos look at Larry Fine's book so that they can do at least some initial
screening on their own.  By the time I get there (and I am, of course,
charging for such service) it should be only to give final approval looking
at and measuring things that the customer doesn't have the expertise to
analyze.

New isn't always better.  It depends on what you are buying.  But there is
little value in the romance of owning a 1920's MH or S&S that is going to
cost you more in end than it is worth.

David Love

 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Nereson" <dnereson@dimensional.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: July 16, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: recommendations for piano buyer


> To the list in general:
>     This appraising, evaluating, and recommending which piano to buy gets
> sticky sometimes.  A long time piano teacher customer of mine is thinking
of
> buying a 1925 5' 8" Mason & Hamlin for around $9 or 10 thousand. It does
> have a very nice tone, but there are 7 cracks in the soundboard (they
don't
> buzz; there's not much rib separation, they're not opened up, but they're
> "there") and the board doesn't have any crown left.  (Has anybody ever
> tightened the turnbuckles on the "spider", or tension resnator?  Does it
> restore crown?  Or do you just not mess with it?).  The action's in pretty
> good shape for its age, but I can see that after another filing or two,
> it'll need new hammers, and probably in 10 or so years it'll also need
> flange repinning, new knuckles or new shanks and flanges, and key
rebushing.
> Also it's got the two-piece jacks, some of which have been repaired or
> reglued, so I know others will also start to click, break, or separate.
She
> likes the tone, the touch, and the ivories, which are pristine.
>     But for the same price ($10 K), she could get a brand new piano, even
> though it's a Korean-made Kohler & Campbell.  To me, the tone isn't that
> much different, and I checked the sustain time in the upper treble, and
it's
> about the same (5 seconds, holding the damper for that note up and
plucking
> one string).  It's a stiffer touch, being new, but that should loosen up
> some with breaking-in.
>     Even though the M&H is prestigious and might sort of retain its value
> because of the name, it's already 75 years old and will need major action
> work in the next 2 or 3 decades, whereas the new K & C will just need
minor
> stuff (light hammer filing, screw tightening, regulation touch-up,
voicing)
> and probably nothing major for at least 20 years.  And after that length
of
> time, the K & C will be worth maybe 2/3 what she paid for it while the M &
H
> will only be worth $5, 6, 7K (today's prices).  (?)
>     Should I tell her to just buy the one she thinks sounds best in terms
of
> tone, or should I tell her you're always better off buying a brand-new
> instrument, even if it's not a high-end brand?   Thanks for any
> pinions.  ----  Vascillating,  --Dave Nereson, RPT, Denver
>