> :) I'm for adjsutable bal rail pins. Just cogitating! > > Larry Trischetta > > > > Or how about removing cheek blocks and put some heavy anchor that would > > have a long aluminum rail attached used for a monorail and attach a dial > > type depth gauge? sort of make it fool proof no? Read gauge, divide by two > > and install that punching. Just musing. > > > > Greg With a rail across the key tops you can quickly learn to guess the amount of punchings you need for each low key. You can get an aluminum "angle iron" on the order of 1/2 by 1/2 inch. Prop up #1 and #88 to the height you want and support the "rail" on these two keys. First make sure there are no high keys the rail is pressing down on. Then see what keys are low and place what punchings you think are enough on top of these low keys. Then remove the rail and put punchings under the key. Then replace the rail and see how level the keys are. You should not have to do this more than 3 times....unless you are very considerate and go back and place the paper punchings under the felt punchings. There is a debate about whether this needs to be done. What is the difference between a paper punching above or below the felt punching?? OK the key rocking up and down should be on the felt punching not a thin paper punching, right? But is there a consideration of the key rocking on the felt punching which is rocking on a very thin paper punching? If so place the ultra fine paper punchings under a thicker paper punching under the felt punching. BOTHERATION. --- ric ps the reason why there is not a scew up balance rail pin to level keys is because the blance rail pin must be tilted a little front to back and also sideways if necessary. If such a pin is screwed up or down it would wobble out of the other positions.
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