This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment "Epotec 301 epoxy to all the pins..... After overnight cure, The = surface seemed a bit tacky..." I have not used Epotec yet, but have used West System extensively. I = would be concerned about any epoxy mixture that did not cure overnight = (so that it is not tacky). This may indicate an improperly mixed batch = of epoxy (don't ask how I know, but one can mix improper resin/hardener = ratios, and/or not mix the batch thoroughly enough, leaving some resin = hardener-starved). Do you have a left-over glob on a mixing board? I = always am sure to save a little glob (at least) on my spreader/mixer or = something to see that I did not make any mistakes with mixing the = hardener & resin, i.e., I make sure my glob got hard overnight so that I = know my repair has a good batch of epoxy in it. Once or twice over the = years I have made boo-boos, but at least I became aware of it before the = work went out the door (time to clean and re-do!). P.S. HA! I'll have to try this Epotec stuff. My spell checker thinks it = is "Erotic"! Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Meyer Carl=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 2:02 AM Subject: S and S K52 List: =20 I'm presently working on a 1909 S&S K52. It was professionally = refinished. I've so far replaced the keytops, rescaled with PSCALE, and = restrung using wound strings on the first 5 notes above the bass break. = =20 Prior to stringing I lowered the plate w/o removing it by using a = saber saw to take the thickness or height of the dowels down by one saw = kerf. As the screws rose toward the treble side I used progressively = thinner blades (some by hand for accessability). Along the bottom I = used more than one kerf as required to get the downbearing I wanted. I = found I had to remove most of the screws completely and lube with bees = wax in order to pull them down. Rust and corrosion made them just too = tight to move. This worked rather well. I cleaned the bridge by = clamping a brass brush to the blade of an electric carving knife. The = brass brush was about the size of a toothbrush. Then by sections I = warmed the bridge with a hair drier and applied Epotec 301 epoxy to all = the pins. I then rewarmed with the hair drier to help penetration of the = epoxy. Since that is slow setting stuff, I waited awhile and then = removed the excess by brushing the whole bridge with a dry paint brush, = wiping the brush often. I ended up with a nice looking bridge with a = coating of epoxy on it. Might not look good enough for a grand, but = looks okay. After overnight cure, The surface seemed a bit tacky, so I = sprinkled talc on it and brushed it in and then blew off the excess = with my air hose. That worked pretty good considering it didn't take = long at all except for the cure time. =20 So now, I'm starting to regulate and replace the dampers. Hammers are = decent but not original. I now have several questions, since I'm not one who (only works on = Steinways), actually seldom do. =20 In the piano action handbook it calls for .4 inches dip. I see specs = that vary for dip and I've thought that since the dip is the first = interface between the performer and the instrument it would seem that = uniform dip from piano to piano would be desirable. In most cases = regulation can compensate for different dips, so a uniform dip could be = used. I'm not a player so perhaps I don't have a feel for this. Anybody = have any strong opinions on this? How sacred is following the = manufacturing specs regarding dip? =20 I found that repetition was poor in the high treble. I found action = centers were a bit tight especially the jack. After water and alky, = protec and the zapper, it repeats better, but key 88 has a chunk of lead = in it and the dowel capstan pushes up about14 grams. Now the weight of = the whippen is not much more than that, so if there is some lost motion = then the whippen may not even push the key down beyond the lost motion = and that will produce a key leveling problem. Question: What is the criteria for jack tightness? A gram gauge at the end of the jack should read no more that what? Question: Should I remove lead to get better repetion and have better = up weight and down weight? Or am I missing something? =20 Last question: The dampers of S&S uprights as well as Mason and = Hamlin are very different than most uprights. The felt between the = block and the popsicle stick is much thicker than standard supply house = dampers. They have the popsicle sticks in the center section as well. = What do you do to replace those? Steinway has a set of dampers in their = price list for 121 dollars, and I don't even know what they consist of. = Anybody use them, or do you just adapt standard dampers? =20 Comments anybody? Thanks in advance!!! =20 Carl Meyer =20 =20 =20 =20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/65/ed/86/35/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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