Thanks Del, I'm familiar with the CF tool by Yamaha. My question is, (and I'm thinking of simplicity, accuracy, speed) why would coming in from the bottom with a drill bit (TURNED UPSIDE DOWN) the same size as the key pin be a problem? If the keys are only "tickling" a bit too much, as you say, isn't that just the very bottom. I persue this because it is so much faster for me and I know the size of the hole when I am finished. Thanks again, Lance Lafargue, RPT Mandeville, LA New Orleans Chapter, PTG lancelafargue@bellsouth.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Delwin D Fandrich Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 3:45 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: "pulley" keys ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lance Lafargue" <lancelafargue@bellsouth.net> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: January 02, 2001 10:15 AM Subject: RE: "pulley" keys > Hey Del, > Maybe I'm confused about the goal and the ideal key/pin relationship. > Shouldn't the very bottom of the hole be _slightly_ larger than the pin? Not really. I would prefer to have the hole and pin size-on-size. That is, no free play whatsoever, but not binding either. When lifted slightly at the front and released, the key should just drop back in place or get there with just the slightest tickle. > Essentially what you are doing with a traditional tool is forming a V where > the base of the V is slightly larger than the hole. Depends on what you are calling the 'traditional tool.' The tool I use is a tapered rod, flattened on two sides. It is used from the top of the key, i.e., through the bushing. It tapers the hole from the top down. > I am just coming in > from the bottom and exactly doing that leaving the upper portion alone. And > _if the upper portion is not effecting the key_, wouldn't that be the most > accurate way? Nope. Check the supply catalogs and look for a tool either made by Yamaha or copied from theirs. You'll see what I mean. You use it from the top. Del
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