> I've never had anyone tell me why this is a bad idea.... It is not a BAD idea but... The key hole is not drilled "straight" but at an angle to the bottom of the key, about seven degrees or so. The purpose of this is to allow the key to be lifted in the front without stressing the hole. You are crushing wood, which can return later and be eased again later. If you remove wood would not have that option. The hole should be conical in cross section so the bottom os the hole grips the pin and the upper section allows the pin free play when the key is played. The Yamaha CF tool permits making this shape from the top side. Mr. Rosen is introducing lateral key movement by easing only the outside walls of the hole. Larger pins require less "effort" to ease to fit. There was a good reason S&S used to use a .163" pin. Smaller pins require a much tighter tolerance to prevent "chucking". Hard woods with lots of oils in them work best, like lemon wood, rosewood and a few others because of the natural lubricity of the wood work best as "soles". Saliva works well to shrink overly large holes, better than water, but don't ask me why. With polished pins and well lubricated holes and pins the fit can be tighter. A "perfectly" loose hole is not required. The key bottom is not a moving part as such but a pivot point so the fit can be a little tight without effecting performance or unduly effecting friction. -- Newton Hunt Highland Park, NJ mailto:nhunt@jagat.com
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