Grand regulating

[Dave Nereson]

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  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Ron & Lorene Shiflet=20
  To: PTG - send/receive=20
  Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 4:50 PM
  Subject: Re: Grand regulating


      I never use a let-off rack.  What a waste of time.
      When you use a rack, there are always adjustments that seem fine =
on the
  bench and then need to be changed when inside the piano.
      When I was a new technician, I thought a rack was the only way.  =
By and
  by, I learned a timeless lesson.  Be a little more patient now, and =
learn to
  set letoff without a jig.
      By the time you set up a jig, you can have entire let-off adjusted
  inside the piano.  Why waste your time?

  Ron

  Also, I highly recommend buying your own copy of Yamaha's 37 steps =
video's.
  Cost is about $200.  A small price indeed.


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "L. Verkoelen" <mrfixit@pineknot.com>
  To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org>
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:01 AM
  Subject: Grand regulating


  > Hello list,
  >
  > My name is Louis Verkoelen. I am a new associate tech high in the =
resort
  > communities of southern California and have been tuning part time =
for
  > several years. I have been following the list for a couple of months =
now
  and
  > the more I read the more I realize I have yet to learn. I am hoping =
to
  take
  > my tests sometime next year and make this a full time business.
  >
  > I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. I am doing =
my
  > first full regulation on a 1929 4'10" Wurlitzer grand. The lady =
picked it
  up
  > for a song and figured I could make it work right. It looks like it =
hasn't
  > been regulated since new. Let off is over 1/2".
  > Anyway, to my questions.
  > 1.When leveling, are the clip on weights the best way to go or is =
their a
  > better way.
  > 2.I need a let-off rack. Is the Jaras 4 in 1 rack (shaff) any good =
or
  should
  > I stick to the traditional wood style.
  > 3.The blocks that hold the key frame in place are missing. They were
  > originally part of the cheek blocks. Does anybody sell a replacement
  (havn't
  > seen them in the Schaff or APSCO catalogs) or do I have to fabricate =
a
  set.
  > If I have to make, whats the best material to use.
  >
  > Thanks.
  >
  > Louis Verkoelen
  > Big Bear City, CA
  >
  >I agree that fine regulation is best done in the piano, but I find a =
let-off rack useful for getting the regulation in the ballpark. If it's =
pretty new and doesn't need a lot of repair and reconditioning work, =
I'll proceed to just regulate in the piano.  Just as in order to =
fine-tune a piano, it already has to be pretty close to being in tune, I =
find that in order to fine-regulate, it's better if it's already =
roughed-in.  So if it's going to the shop, before I take the action, I =
align hammers to strings and measure the string height (first and last =
of each section) in the piano, measure the key height, and check the =
existing dip and aftertouch (important, because it'll probably be =
different on your bench), then bring it to the shop, remove the stack =
and keys, vacuum it all out, tighten screws, replace, square, ease, =
level, and space the keys, using the clip-on weights (some people don't =
like them 'cause the lead makes a mark on the back of the backcheck; I =
figure it doesn't damage anything and nobody sees it except the =
technician, so big deal).  I almost never have to add or subtract =
punchings after it's back in the piano.   Then I align all the other =
action parts to each other and use the regulating rack to set an =
approximate hammer line and get the let-off and drop pretty close, but =
too wide, so when it's back in the piano, I just have to do fine =
adjustment.  (This is of course just a brief description of regulation). =
 I don't think it's a waste of time -- it's like a pitch raise so I =
won't have to spend as long in the customer's home.  I do a complete =
regulation with the rack, then fine-regulate in the home at the piano, =
and I usually don't have to change much--just get the let-off, drop, and =
key dip/aftertouch more refined.   I thought the prices for the racks in =
the catalogs were outrageous, so I made my own rack from wood slats =
mounted on a 2 by 4 that I can clamp, weight, or screw to the bench.  =
It's about 2 feet wide.  The Jaras one is probably fine, but I don't =
have any experience with it.
      As far as the keyframe guide-pin blocks, you'll probably have to =
fabricate some.  I would opt for maple or other almost-as-hard wood.  =
Were they "part of" the cheek blocks, or just covered by them?  Is there =
another old Wurlitzer at a piano store or customer's that you can look =
at to see what was there?
      Sincerely, David Nereson, RPT, Denver


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