Regarding an action refurbish as generally descibed below (refelt, fix friction problems, some repinning, level keys, fully regulate) how much time would you typically spend on such a job. I fear I spend too much time on a job like this. Please no responses from the Bionic clan. Human technicians only - you know, regular ones that get a little confused at times, etc. You Bionic dudes scare me. Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:00 PM Subject: Re: Grand regulating + Backcheck Question > To my post below, that I just sent a moment ago, I should have added the > following: > > When talking to your client about their 72 year old action that appears to > not have been serviced for decades - perhaps more than seven decades - talk > to them about "refurbishing" the action. I am assuming it does not seem to > be a situation where the piano owner is looking to rebuild the action (of > course, this is what is needed, but hey, it don't always happen). I use the > term "refurbish" to mean no major parts replacement (except for a few that > are capable of functioning), but rather doing the things we piano > technicians can do (sanding, polishing, adjusting, filing, shaping, > leveling, bending, cleaning, etc.) to make the action work as good as it can > with the parts it has. > > Terry Farrell > Piano Tuning & Service > Tampa, Florida > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:53 PM > Subject: Re: Grand regulating + Backcheck Question > > > > Hi Louis. Looks like you got some good responses so far. I am somewhat of > a > > beginner also, so I also tend to get these small American grand actions in > > for a refurbish that haven't been touched in 80 years. I have a few > comments > > that have not been brought up for these actions. > > > > 1) Refelt the keyframe. Remove all felt and punchings. New punchings, new > > felt on front, center (use thin punchings), and back rail. It doesn't take > > long, and boy, it sure makes the keys feel better. > > > > 2) Key bushings. They almost gotta be shot - unless they have been > replaced > > in the last few decades. Fixing the sloppy keys will get a lot of bang for > > the buck in getting an old action up and running (well, at least trotting > > gracefully). Make sure the rail pins are not rusty or scratched - replace > > any that are. > > > > 3) As someone else suggested, make sure you will be setting a good key > > height. Best way to do this is to experiment with a couple keys in the pia > no > > to make sure you have clearance with the fallboard and keyslip, and that > you > > still get enough travel with the key (keeping in mind new punchings, etc. > > > > 4) File those 1/4" deep groves out of hammers. I use the Dremel rig for > > these real deep nasty groves. Once you get the feel for it, one or two > quick > > passes over those hammers that should be in the trash and you got yourself > a > > good looking, nicely shaped, old hammer that should be in the trash - but > > what the heck, it'll go for a few more decades! > > > > 5) I take the hammer and wippen rails off the action frame and swing the > > wippens & hammers. Look for the tightest and loosest ones. Remove and > check > > friction in offending flanges. Fix what is needed. Keep doing this until > you > > get the worst ones in the right ballpark. > > > > 6) With these nasty old actions I use a home-made wooden let-off rack AND > > the Spurlock let-off rack and do my regulating on the bench. I highly > > recommend the Spurlock thingee. I use it for let-off AND for setting drop. > > With a good FLAT bench, you can come pretty close. And being that you are > > starting from scratch (way out in left field), you need to get it in the > > ballpark on the bench. And yes, the other posts are correct that you will > > need to do some regulation in the piano - I find that sometimes you really > > need to go through the whole thing again - key leveling, etc. (I suppose > > because the keyframe/keybed are not real straight) - but sometimes there > is > > barely a thing to touch-up (keeping in mind here we are talking about a > 1929 > > Wurly with presumably original parts - no concert regulation going on > here - > > we are usually looking for function). > > > > Here is a question from me: I find that you can usually make an old action > > work acceptably (anyone that buys an 80 year old original condition tiny > > American grand AIN'T looking for hi performance). The one thing that I > often > > find difficult to make function acceptably is hammer checking. Obviously, > > new backchecks and arcing the hammer tails would take care of that, but > that > > has always seemed to be beyond the scope of what this type of piano owner > is > > looking for. As long as the hammer is not double-striking the string, I > > don't think they care whether the hammer checks or not. I do though. Does > > anyone have any tricks/tip for getting hammers to check on these actions > > without new back checks and arcing the hammer tails? > > > > Terry Farrell > > Piano Tuning & Service > > Tampa, Florida > > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "L. Verkoelen" <mrfixit@pineknot.com> > > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 12:01 PM > > Subject: Grand regulating > > > > > > > Hello list, > > > > > > My name is Louis Verkoelen. I am a new associate tech high in the resort > > > communities of southern California and have been tuning part time for > > > several years. I have been following the list for a couple of months now > > and > > > the more I read the more I realize I have yet to learn. I am hoping to > > take > > > my tests sometime next year and make this a full time business. > > > > > > I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. I am doing my > > > first full regulation on a 1929 4'10" Wurlitzer grand. The lady picked > it > > up > > > for a song and figured I could make it work right. It looks like it > hasn't > > > been regulated since new. Let off is over 1/2". > > > Anyway, to my questions. > > > 1.When leveling, are the clip on weights the best way to go or is their > a > > > better way. > > > 2.I need a let-off rack. Is the Jaras 4 in 1 rack (shaff) any good or > > should > > > I stick to the traditional wood style. > > > 3.The blocks that hold the key frame in place are missing. They were > > > originally part of the cheek blocks. Does anybody sell a replacement > > (havn't > > > seen them in the Schaff or APSCO catalogs) or do I have to fabricate a > > set. > > > If I have to make, whats the best material to use. > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > Louis Verkoelen > > > Big Bear City, CA > > > > > > > > >
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