Avery Todd wrote: > > Pris isn't saying that pre-traveling isn't a good way to do it, > necessarily. She's only saying that it isn't "necessary" because once the hammers > are hung, you usually have to go back and do a good bit of traveling anyway. This is fair enough. Question is whether its desirable or not to do it one way or the other. I suppose in the end thats going to end up being up to the individual > . I've bought pre-hung hammers and there is a lot of traveling and > burning to do once they are installed, No argument here... thats one of the reason I never buy prehung hammers. Yamaha and Steinway included. > it's very difficult to grasp the concept even in a class. You have to ignore > the"traveling" of the hammer and pay attention to the "air", "light", > whatever, betweenthe top and the tail of the hammer when gluing. Well Paul made the principle clear enough. Like I said its easy to see how this would work. His key point as I read it was... >What this achieves is an orientation that is perpendicular to the >axis of travel, though not necessarily vertical until traveling has been done. Seems interesting enough to give it a try.... after it was first adequately explained by you and Paul. > > I've tried to use the "lines drawn on a piece of wood" method of pre-traveling > but I just have never been able to get it so accurate that I didn't have to go > back and spend just about as much time as at the beginning in traveling after the > hammers are hung and if I can avoid it, I really hate having to do the same job > twice. :-) I guess it boils down to what works for you then eh ? > > Avery > > P.S. Does E for Effort count? :-) > Only if its an S.E. :) Richard Brekne RPT, N.P.T.F. Bergen, Norway mailto:Richard.Brekne@grieg.uib.no
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