jig for tapering hammers with shanks on

[jolly roger]

Hi David, 
              I have both photo's and slides, and will be covering the
topic, in my Taming the Korean action class in Reno.  If you send me your
mailing address I will send a Drawing.
I think Derek Gibson scanned these photo's and posted them some time ago,
so try the archives.
regards roger


At 05:47 AM 2/24/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Roger:
>
>I thought I'd post this again since I should have changed the subject 
>heading to be sure you would see it.  Do you have any drawings, photo's, 
>descriptions that you can post of the jig for tapering hammers on a table 
>saw with the shanks on.  I usually taper prior to hanging but there are many 
>occasions where this type of jig would be useful for reducing hammer weight 
>after the hammers are hung.
>
>thanks,
>
>David Love
>
>
>>From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
>>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>>Subject: Re: traveling/traveling/ traveling?
>>Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:29:11 -0600
>>
>>
>> >Hey there Roger... was wondering when you would pipe in on this one !..
>>Say...
>> >have you ever tried this "hang first travel second" approach ?? If so why
>>dont
>> >you tell us a bit about your experience with it ?
>> >--
>>
>>Hi Richard,
>>                  I have tried several methods.
>>Here is how I do it today, or until I find a better method that suits me.
>>I use only German or Japanese shank's, since I feel they are of a higher
>>quality of material and machining, than their North American equivalents.
>>(They need far less travelling).
>>
>>1. Clean the rail of old sand paper in most cases, since old travel paper
>>and and various 'gunk' always seems to be inbedded in it.
>>2. Very lightly sand with 320grit, and replace sand paper. Thin double
>>sided sticky tape is clean and fast.
>>
>>Side Note: as I'm typing.  I space, rotate, and travel all wippens before I
>>start,
>>3. Quickly screw on all new shanks with electric driver.  Eye ball spacing
>>and rough checking the fit of wip to knuckle as I go. Goes real fast. (
>>Tip.Examine the knuckles carefully of you new shank's)
>>4. Dry fit the end hammers in each section, checking travel, strike point,
>>over centering, and squareness,  ( use a machinist square on the bench to
>>check both sides of each hammer)
>>Once I'm satisfied, glue samples and recheck in piano.
>>5. Travel any obvious bad shanks. Very few needed with high quality parts.
>>
>>Another side note: weigh and sort shanks before starting.
>>6.  I use the Spurlock gig.  As I glue on the rest of the hammers, I am
>>checking that the bottom the tails sit squarely on the tray and the hammers
>>are parallel with each other.
>>7.  Leave 24hrs before doing fine travelling and burn in.  Moisture from
>>the glue will often cause a shank to twist a little.
>>8.  Any hammers that are more than a few degrees off square should be
>>pulled and reglued, any burn in more than this has a way of creeping back.
>>9.  Remove and number all hammers and shanks.
>>10. Trim shanks on band saw.
>>11. Taper hammers as require for clearance and or wight control.  I have a
>>good set of jigs to do this chore on the table saw with shanks on.
>>12. Tail hammer arc to 1/2 the centre pin to tail radius.
>>13.  Reinstall hammers
>>14.  At the piano, spacing, fine travel, and srting fit/spacing is done in
>>one combined operation.
>>Have I ever said grand actions are interactive?.
>>15   Now go back and relign the wips, should be just small corrections.
>>
>>I'm boring and hanging a set of hammers on Monday, so I may change the
>>proceedure. <G>
>>They will be Abel's so very few problems.  Great shanks.
>>
>>Regards Roger
>>
>>
>>
>
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