Roger: I would be interested in seeing the jig for tapering hammers on a table saw with the shanks on. Have you got a drawing or photograph or description you can post. Thanks David Love >From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> >Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org >To: pianotech@ptg.org >Subject: Re: traveling/traveling/ traveling? >Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:29:11 -0600 > > > >Hey there Roger... was wondering when you would pipe in on this one !.. >Say... > >have you ever tried this "hang first travel second" approach ?? If so why >dont > >you tell us a bit about your experience with it ? > >-- > >Hi Richard, > I have tried several methods. >Here is how I do it today, or until I find a better method that suits me. >I use only German or Japanese shank's, since I feel they are of a higher >quality of material and machining, than their North American equivalents. >(They need far less travelling). > >1. Clean the rail of old sand paper in most cases, since old travel paper >and and various 'gunk' always seems to be inbedded in it. >2. Very lightly sand with 320grit, and replace sand paper. Thin double >sided sticky tape is clean and fast. > >Side Note: as I'm typing. I space, rotate, and travel all wippens before I >start, >3. Quickly screw on all new shanks with electric driver. Eye ball spacing >and rough checking the fit of wip to knuckle as I go. Goes real fast. ( >Tip.Examine the knuckles carefully of you new shank's) >4. Dry fit the end hammers in each section, checking travel, strike point, >over centering, and squareness, ( use a machinist square on the bench to >check both sides of each hammer) >Once I'm satisfied, glue samples and recheck in piano. >5. Travel any obvious bad shanks. Very few needed with high quality parts. > >Another side note: weigh and sort shanks before starting. >6. I use the Spurlock gig. As I glue on the rest of the hammers, I am >checking that the bottom the tails sit squarely on the tray and the hammers >are parallel with each other. >7. Leave 24hrs before doing fine travelling and burn in. Moisture from >the glue will often cause a shank to twist a little. >8. Any hammers that are more than a few degrees off square should be >pulled and reglued, any burn in more than this has a way of creeping back. >9. Remove and number all hammers and shanks. >10. Trim shanks on band saw. >11. Taper hammers as require for clearance and or wight control. I have a >good set of jigs to do this chore on the table saw with shanks on. >12. Tail hammer arc to 1/2 the centre pin to tail radius. >13. Reinstall hammers >14. At the piano, spacing, fine travel, and srting fit/spacing is done in >one combined operation. >Have I ever said grand actions are interactive?. >15 Now go back and relign the wips, should be just small corrections. > >I'm boring and hanging a set of hammers on Monday, so I may change the >proceedure. <G> >They will be Abel's so very few problems. Great shanks. > >Regards Roger > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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