Warped Shanks

[Ward & Probst]

Brian,
If you wet the area you are heating there will be no burn marks. As you heat
the area, the moisture steams the wood and makes "casting the shanks" easier
particularly on delicate shanks or parts. Hope I used the phrase correctly,
it is quite a bit nicer than burning!
Best,
Dale
Dale Probst, RPT & Elizabeth Ward, RPT
Texoma International Chapter
http://texoma.int.chapter.tripod.com

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
Of Brian Lawson
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:40 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: Warped Shanks


A point of note re the term "burning shanks"... in England I grew up with
the term "to cast a shank"... meaning to "turn" (as you would cast a sail).
It may be, depending on the dryness of the shank that you end up with odd
one or two having burn marks, but that is a result of the conditons, not the
direct intention of the exercise.

Brian Lawson, RPT
Johannesburg, South Africa

TEXOMA CHAPTER
http://texoma.int.chapter.tripod.com



> Hi Dick,
>
> THe best tool I have found for this is a butane lighter with a long
> extension for lighting grills or fireplaces.  I use this for burning
> both vertical and grand shanks.
>
> The reason I prefer this method is because when you take the heat away
> it cools quickly (everything including the shank) and you can judge
> the amount of heat by watching the flame (low) and keep it moving up
> and down.  With blowers or heating elements it is hard to judge the
> amount of heat and I have scorched other parts with them and not with
> the flame.
>
> Move the hammer forward and put the flame next to the shank and move
> it up and down then twist the shank the way you wish it to go and then
> take the flame away.  COntinue to hold the hammer twisted for a few
> more seconds then look at it.  Heat again if needed.  Be considerate
> of the pinning and watch for other burning parts.  It is easy to
> scorch the hammer rail cloth so I move the hammer forward away from
> it.
>
> If you need to warp a shank to raise or lower the hammer strike point
> you can lift or press down the hammer at the strike point and heat the
> shank.  WOrks well.
>
> As for sideways you could use a pair of damper pliers that will hold a
> grand damper head with the jaws parallel and warp the shank as
> described above but most spacing cAn be done by loosening the butt
> screw and moving the hammer in the desired direction and tightening
> the screw.
>
> Just be careful and have your wits about you.
>
> Newton