Bummer Old Upright and loose tuning pins

[Farrell]

Hi Charles. Someone already addressed your last question about threads. I
agree with it.
Regarding which method to use - this is what I do (and I am incorporating
info I just learned yesterday on this list!):

1) Talk to client about new block - but on junky old upright that they do
not want to invest money in, we drop that option quickly.

2) Replace piano - not necessary just because you have a few loose pins, but
may be the straw that can break the camel's back (think positively - maybe
you can use the pin problem along with the other 8,972 things wrong with the
piano to talk the owner into getting a decent piano).

3) Larger tuning pins or shimming with sandpaper - in my book either one has
same effect. I like 120 grit sandpaper because it is easier to carry than
tuning pins and I like the feel it gives with the hammer - never a jumpy
pin - I think you can have that once in a while with a bigger pin if the
hole is glazed/polished by the old pin. Only do this is you think the block
is in good condition (not cracked or delaminated) and when there are only a
few loose pins and the others are decently tight enough to last for a
decade. I favor the sandpaper shim when there are only a few loose pins (on
a good block) - absolutely reliable and predictable and neat and feels
great.

4) Doping the block with tightening liquid - the only "doping" I do is with
thin CA glue. I have had mixed results with it, although mostly positive -
but not always. I like what Bill Bremmer suggested about taking out the pin
and coating hole with thick CA - great to do when you don't have too many
loose pins in a cracked/delaminated block. Maybe the Bill Bremmer method is
best when there are just a few loose pins, but the integrity of the block is
suspect. The thin CA method is great when many/most/all the pins are getting
loose. I think many techs use the thin CA on just one or two pins, but I
would be concerned about reliability and longevity - you really should take
the action out - and then you need to let it dry good - sandpaper shimming
is quick, easy, predictable, and results are immediate and long-lasting.

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Neuman" <cneuman@phy.duke.edu>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Bummer Old Upright and loose tuning pins


> Hi Terry and list,
>
> I'm curious what thought process you go through when you encounter loose
> pins. I assume you brought up the subject of a new pin block to the
> customer, and then told the customer that the repair would probably be
> worth more than the piano. So then you have several options: larger tuning
> pins, driving pins in further if possible, shimming, and doping the block
> with tightening liquid. I found all these mentioned in Reblitz. How do you
> decide which option to use?
>
> I also have a question about driving the pin further in. I think of the
> pin like a screw in a threaded hole. My initial reaction to the idea of
> driving it in futher is that it would strip all the threads. Help me out
> here.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charles Neuman
> PTG Associate
> Plainview, NY
>
>