Hell Phil, some almost new pianer's are almost untunable. and some are truly Golden Oldie's. You got me. Roger At 10:41 PM 4/4/01 -0400, you wrote: >This week (and it's only Thursday) I have been called out to tune three >un-tunable (upright) pianos which the owners indicated on the phone were >tunable, even though they were 80 to 100 years old. When I arrived at the >homes, the pianos were wrecks with the expected rust, corrosion, and rot. >To these owners, a tuning meant a rebuild. In each case, I left without >tuning. How can I avoid this in the future? Is there a number of years-old >that you will not go out for a tuning? How do I weed out the tunable >pianos from the un-tunable pianos on the phone? > >Phil Ryan >Miami Beach, FL > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos@hotmail.com> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 1:38 AM >Subject: Re: Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps > > >> >> Jim: >> >> Would you then consider using varnish as driving fluid on a restringing >job >> where you are reusing the old block? With what effect? >> >> David Love >> >> >From: JIMRPT@AOL.COM >> >Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org >> >To: pianotech@ptg.org >> >Subject: Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps >> >Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 01:00:58 EDT >> > >> > >> >In a message dated 4/03/2001 10:41:07 PM, Dale wrote: >> > >> ><<"I've wondered about driving fluids >> > >> >as well but have not used them.">> >> > >> >Dale a Cuba Libre ain't bad on a warm day and...... it sho makes working >> >less >> >painful! :-) >> > >> > Undoubtedly you will get several "opinions" in this thread so here's >> >mine....OK? >> >A good pin driving aid will contain 3(?) qualities and these are: >> >1.) ease of use/application. >> >2.) consistency of results. >> >3.) aid in stringing effort. >> > >> > My favorite weapon of choice is Spar Varnish because it is: >> >1.) easy to use/apply. (little dab'll do you and too much won't effect >long >> >term results. >> >2.) gives verrry consistent results. >> >3.) makes stringing sooo much easier (particuarly if you use a T handle >> >like >> >I do. >> > >> > The varnish acts as a sealer/lubricant while it is still wet and as a >> >sealer/ snap retardant when it is dry. Turning pins in a wet pinblock >> >treated >> >with varnish is aprox 1/4 to 1/3 easier than turning them when the block >is >> >dry. >> > >> > >> > <<"I'm using buldoc/stwy blocks in all >> > >> >stwys/Rebuilds and the pins are hard to drive and no matte how >consistently >> > >> >I drill I.E. same speed,pressure and air cooling there will always be >some >> > >> >tortional inconsistencies. That being said I mostly like how they >tune.">> >> > >> > The five ply blocks you are using are very good blocks...but like most >> >things they do have some drawbacks chief of which is what mayyyy be >termed >> >soft spotitis. >> > This happens when two or more layers of the pinblock have 'soft' spots >> >lined >> >up vertically. The result of this is that when you drill the holes they >> >will >> >be a trifle larger in the 'soft spots' then in the relatively 'harder' >rest >> >of the block...........also these 'soft spots' will not hold a pin with >the >> >same force as will the 'harder' portions of the plank....this results in >> >your >> >"tortional inconsistencies'. Just the way things are with these >> >blocks...don't mean they are 'bad'. Short of hand picking ass'td size >pins >> >for preselected holes I don't know any cure for this symptom. >> > >> >In a 5 ply block with two soft spots together this "spotitis" will effect >> >aprox. 40% of the pin length...or if the first 4 layers are all that are >> >contacted it will effect aprox. 50% of the pin length....how much this >will >> >effect the "inconsistencies" you are speaking of is relative to the rest >of >> >the block. >> > >> > If'n y'all likes the way dey tune, and all the other parameters of >> >stability, etc. are there, then keep on keepin on. >> > >> > >> > <<"My question is this. For those of you who are using maple blocks >and >> > >> >driving fluids ,do you think it affects tuning smoothness, changes >> >tortional >> > >> >values or is it just a way to make driving a pin easier. My >> >srtinger(Terry) >> > >> >is a little five ft. Italian gal and although plenty fiesty would >> >appreciate >> > >> >any help in the driving each new One ought pins into freshly bored >> >maple.:>> >> > >> > Varnish treated blocks definitely have fewer 'snappers' than do non >> >treated >> >blocks,.....in my experience. Driving in the pins is much easier and >> >setting >> >coils, applying tension and chipping are all easier by 'far' while the >> >varnish is still at least damp. >> >1/0 pins??? Why do you use 1/0 pins? In my opinion 1/0 pins add a measure >> >of >> >flagpoling/twistyness that I don't like, but if there is a gooood reason >> >for >> >using them I might reconsider my thoughts here. >> > >> > >> > >> > <<"Also if driving fluid changed slightly the pin torque and allowed >for >> > >> >smoother rendering that would be fine.">> >> > >> > Dale, treating or not treating the pins/pinblock has absolutely nothing >> >to >> >do with string rendering other than making the tuning pin easier to >> >manipulate. However that being said I will contradict myself and say that >> >having to fight the pin less will allow you to 'feel' the rendering much >> >better....or is that what you meant? >> > >> > >> > >> ><<"The finest tuning piano in the world >> > >> >is an old steinway thats never yet been restrung. You know the kind ,well >> > >> >preserved and unadulterated. The pin torque is so even and the tuning >ends >> > >> >up being so stable because the pin doesn't wrestle with the tuner!!!!">> >> > >> >Betcha a LARGE cup of coffee that this pinblock was treated with varnish >> >during stringing...wanna bet? :-) >> >My opinion. >> >Jim Bryant (FL) >> >p.s. Do a test for yourself....take a scrap piece of pinblock....drill >> >three >> >holes... >> >drill one hole 17/64ths and two holes 1/4"..............(adjust for your >> >favorite sizing/feel).....in the 17/64 and first 1/4 >hole..........install >> >2/0 pins to the level where they would normally be after chipping/coil >> >setting/tapping.......in the last 1/4 hole (for the test only) wet a >small >> >piece/wad of paper towel with spar varnish and push through the pinblock >> >with >> >a hammer shank...install the pin to the same level as the other two >pins(be >> >sure and mark the holes as to which is what:). Immediatetly try turning >> >the >> >pins starting with the 17/64 and ending with the treated pin.......wait a >> >few >> >hours and try turning the pins again....set the test aside for a week or >so >> >and then try the pins again...let us know what you find OK? >> > >> > >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com >> >> >
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