Dan & Martha wrote: "> Another tip... Invest in the tool that adjusts the round wooden nut, > usually found on the other threaded end of the lifter wire at the key end, > if you plan on doing more of these. Some of these nuts can be very tight, > and this tool will speed up the lost motion reg job." What tool? What does it look like? Where do you get it? Do you have a part number? Sounds interesting as I agree that some of those little guys are hard to turn. Thanks Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan & Martha Reed" <thepianoarts@home.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 11:43 PM Subject: Re: Plastic elbows > > Charly, > > One way to do this job is to remove all of the lifter wires, and keep > them in order. This is important for two reasons... > #1- The lifter wires in some pianos will be bent, so as to clear the back > check. The amount of bending can vairy from section to section. > #2- The 'lost motion' adjustment after instalation, will be minimum if the > wires are replaced back to the keys they came from. > To help speed things up, use locking pliers to mark the position on the > lifter wire, where the new elbow will spin on to. This will act as a stop > for the new elbow. This is done, of course, before breaking off the old > remaining elbow still attached to the wire. Just clamp onto the wire, butted > up to the end of old elbow, and break away the remaining peanut brittle, and > spin on the new elbow till it stops. > Another tip... Invest in the tool that adjusts the round wooden nut, > usually found on the other threaded end of the lifter wire at the key end, > if you plan on doing more of these. Some of these nuts can be very tight, > and this tool will speed up the lost motion reg job. > This piano might have excessive blow and no after touch if it has seen > little service. Remember to set let-off, blow distance, dip if needed, and > then at last, the lost-motion, after installing the new elbows. > The elbows do indeed snap on. With experience, one can feel the opening > of the elbow when it is sitting 'saddled' on the pin. Some elbows will have > a little more felt at the opening, and will need more pressure to 'thump' > them on. Keep the elbow square to the pin. If you break the thin wooden > walls holding the pin, your screwed. Bring veneer and super glue to the job, > and forget your next appointment. > > Dan Reed > Richardson,Texas > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Charly Tuner <charly_tuner@hotmail.com> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 8:35 PM > > Subject: Plastic elbows > > > > > >> Got an older "Winter" Spinet as a freebie, and it's actually in very > >> excellent cosmetic shape....However, not just a few, but ALL plastic > > elbows > >> are broken! Is this a job for Superman? As a newbie, I love new challenges > >> and consider this to be an excellent project for me. What do you think the > >> cost of all new elbows, and most likely new rubber grommets and any other > >> plastic thingies will cost me from a supply house? Btw, do the new > >> replacement elbows "snap" on OVER the flange pin? I sure hope so! Other > > than > >> that, it's pretty much gonna be a labor of love. > >> > >> > >> Terry Peterson > >> Los Angeles, CA > >> Associate Member, PTG > >> > >> ________________________________________________________________________ > >> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > >> > > >
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