Coils and tuning pin bushings

[Jon Page]

At 03:57 PM 05/27/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Friends,
>
>First, thanks for your very helpful responses regarding "humidity problem 
>- will
>this fix it."
>
>Second,  there was some confusion about which tuning pin bushings we were
>talking about.  When I responded I was thinking of that sleeve that goes into
>the hole, a part that is called a "metal tuning pin bushing" in the Schaff
>catalog.  Others had in mind the wooden "tuning pin bushings" as Schaff refers
>to them, the "collar" around each tuning pin.  The confusion is understandable
>since the names of the two parts are so close, and of course Schaff is not the
>final authority on the names of things, I suppose.
>
>But now I do have a two-part question about "the right way to do things," 
>which
>relates to both the "wooden collar" tuning pin bushings and making the 
>coil.  I
>have been under the assumption that if I need to replace a string, the proper
>way is to make the coil and becket first, slip the coil over the tuning 
>pin and
>draw it tight.  This reduces the number of turns I need to make on the pin and
>theoretically reduces the chance of making the hole larger and reducing the
>torque.  I almost never do this, usually opting for backing the pin out three
>turns and making the coil on the pin.  Is this a serious no-no?


If you already know is the best way to do it, why do it any other way?
It's like saying, "I know if I drive over broken glass, I might get a flat tire
but I do it anyway".

>I check first to see what torque I am dealing with.  I use a larger tuning pin
>if the original is too loose.  I did make the coils beforehand when I was
>replacing a pair of single-wound strings in a Steinway grand, since on a piano
>of that quality I didn't want to take the chance of making a choice that I 
>might
>regret later.  This worked out fine, but it took me considerably longer, since
>it was not the way I usually do things.

The coil is made on a dummy pin with a stringing crank. I cut the pin 1/4"
below the hole so it will fit in tight places. I also cut up into the pin 
to the hole
so that the coil will slip right off the pin easily. A pair of needle-nose 
pliers
installs the new coil in the pin in the piano.


>Second part.  On a Young Chang grand which is played heavily and needs 
>frequent
>string replacements, I use my standard procedure, backing the pin out three
>turns.  But even if I were to back the tuning pin out only one turn, the 
>bushing
>moves with the pin and starts coming up out of the hole.  When I tighten 
>the pin
>again, will the bushing go back in the hole?  Huh-uh!  What do the rest of you
>do in a situation like this?  I'm embarrassed to say I have no experience in
>replacing tuning pin bushings and am not even sure how to start, although I
>could experiment.  I presume that when doing a total restringing, the bushings
>go in before the pins do.  This is a different situation.

I wouldn't worry about the spinning collar. besides, with making the coil on
another pin, the tuning pin only needs to be backed off 3/4 turn.

Tuning pin bushing installation and drilling is a whole other topic
which is covered in the archives.

With backing the pin out three turns, no only are you wearing the hole
larger and reducing torque but the coils are probably going to be less neat.

I think it's time to change your procedure.

Regards,

Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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