Baldwin Hamilton butts and backchecks

[Ted Simmons]

The Bill Spurlock article is in the December 1991 Journal, on page 22.

Ted Simmons

----------
>From: Bdshull@AOL.COM
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: Re: Baldwin Hamilton butts and backchecks
>Date: Thu, Mar 16, 2000, 10:27 AM
>

> Paul:
>
> Bill Spurlock wrote an excellent piece on this in the Journal sometime in the
> early 90's, I think.  I used to soak all the catcher leather and peel it off
> (easy), then remove the butts from the action and cut off the buckskin with a
> knife (time consuming).  Hammer butt removal requires spacing the hammers to
> the strings on reinstallation.  Even with help in the shop, there is a better
> way.
>
> Bill's method involves removing the dampers, the spring and hammer rest
> rails;  soaking and removing the catcher material, and cutting off the butt
> buckskin in situ.  Damper removal allows you to swing the hammers forward to
> remove the butt leather.  Once the leather is removed from the upper glue
> spot (lever a small knife against the catcher to peel it off), you can make a
> cut above and below the leather at the kerf, and the piece will easily pull
> off.  If the cuts are made cleanly, the slot is ready for the new buckskin.
> Be sure to clean up any remaining buckskin.  For replacement, use either real
> buckskin from Renner/etc., or the precut Baldwin supplied synthetic material
> - it is good stuff, not like the pre-'85 material.  Baldwin may send it to
> you at no cost - they used to, and provide a small subsidy for in-warranty
> pianos.
>
> Baldwin supplied CA glue at one time, and it works OK.  Hot hide glue is
> great.  Of course, anytime buckskin is replaced it is hard to achieve good
> appearance, but the performance is very much improved.
>
> Bill Shull
> University of Redlands, La Sierra University