Paul: Bill Spurlock wrote an excellent piece on this in the Journal sometime in the early 90's, I think. I used to soak all the catcher leather and peel it off (easy), then remove the butts from the action and cut off the buckskin with a knife (time consuming). Hammer butt removal requires spacing the hammers to the strings on reinstallation. Even with help in the shop, there is a better way. Bill's method involves removing the dampers, the spring and hammer rest rails; soaking and removing the catcher material, and cutting off the butt buckskin in situ. Damper removal allows you to swing the hammers forward to remove the butt leather. Once the leather is removed from the upper glue spot (lever a small knife against the catcher to peel it off), you can make a cut above and below the leather at the kerf, and the piece will easily pull off. If the cuts are made cleanly, the slot is ready for the new buckskin. Be sure to clean up any remaining buckskin. For replacement, use either real buckskin from Renner/etc., or the precut Baldwin supplied synthetic material - it is good stuff, not like the pre-'85 material. Baldwin may send it to you at no cost - they used to, and provide a small subsidy for in-warranty pianos. Baldwin supplied CA glue at one time, and it works OK. Hot hide glue is great. Of course, anytime buckskin is replaced it is hard to achieve good appearance, but the performance is very much improved. Bill Shull University of Redlands, La Sierra University
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