I bought the marine resin from Read Plastics in Rockville, Maryland in the mid 1980's. I used it because it was almost a water thin consistency instead of thick like epoxy. You mix a few drops of hardener with the marine resin and it flows easily into the cracks around a warmed bridge pin. You don't necessarily have to fill the cracks all the way to the top of the bridge, so it is possible that after the repair, it doesn't look like you did anything. You can probably buy marine resin in any hardware store. I use boat resin to attach the kevlar skid plates to my canoe, but that can be a mess because kevlar "floats". That carbon-kevlar fabric is strong, though, as my 18 foot canoe only weighs 37 pounds. I find that paddling a canoe, and especially a kayak equipped with foot braces, takes the kinks out of my back and shoulders after a hard day tuning! Whether or not marine resin is the same as boat resin, I don't know. It would be fairly cheap to obtain boat resin and experiment with a regular soldering iron and bridge pins drilled into too large holes in a piece of scrap wood. Carol Beigel >Hi Carol. Your input sounds real interesting for a "quickie" repair. You >state that you use "Marine Resin". What is that. Polyester/Fiberglas resin? >Do you feel polyester (assuming that is what you are using) has some >advantage over epoxy resin? Thanks. > ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC