Best luck I've ever had was with Apsco's repair flanges (#24503 pg. 77 in their newest catalog). If you're very lucky, the brass rail will have a mounting screw corresponding to each hammer-butt. If you're unlucky then you'll have to remove the rail and mark and drill for them, plugging and relocating old holes as necessary to achieve the correct geometry. If the piano is otherwise worth saving then this is a worthwhile way to spend an afternoon. An oldtimer who was a great help to me in my earlier days used to anneal intact brass rails in his coal furnace for me. I would then replace the butt plates as a matter of course, but this only works *before* the tabs start to break on their own. After this, you're better off in the long run replacing the rails alltogether. - Mark > > A very nice poverty struck customer who with best intentions bought a 1908 > Lyon and Healy upright for a hundred dollars, "for the kid to earn on". > > I was called to tune it after the first 5 brass rail tabs broke off. The > action is the problem, the rest of the piano is remarkably good. Brass rail > clips do not work well on this particular piano's brass rail geometry, > raising the hammer butt over an eight of an inch. No normal repair flanges > fit to the screw hole and centerpin line. I have been removing the section of > brass rail of just a particular note and using Billings flanges beaten flat > to repair it, but it is a clunky repair and is not that easy to do. >
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