Bridge Pin/Epoxy Question

[Stan Kroeker]

> My question is: What is the best way to get the epoxy into the bridge pin
> hole.

Terry,

Whenever we do a rebuild involving restringing (obviously!) we do the
following to achieve precise and solid termination at the bridges:

First, after removing bridge pins and noting pin sizes along the length
of each bridge, we sand (or plane or scrape if you wish) the top of the
bridge just to the bottom of the string grooves.  This is where the new
strings will rest anyway and it is a real eye-opener to see how far
forward of the pin holes the edge of the notch has crept over time.

Since we always use the 1" pointed bridge pins, we usually have to drill
the existing holes a little deeper, to achieve uniform pin projection
without having to sand or file the pins. Then, with a >sharp< chisel, we
re-cut all notches, exactly bisecting the pin holes of each unison.  

With gloved hands and new pins at the ready, we mix small batches of
epoxy (West System) and using a short piece of thick music wire apply
one drop at each pin hole (do a section at a time), then dip the tip of
each pin in the epoxy, insert and drive to depth with a punch.  You now
have a perfectly seated pin with a collar of epoxy around it.  Using an
acid swab brush dipped in lacquer thinner, brush the excess epoxy down
into the notch (mask off the soundboard to protect its finish).  This
simultaneously cleans the pin and forms a light finish in the notches.

Once epoxy has cured, use an artist brush to apply graphite to the top
of the bridge.  If you want a 'like-new' cosmetic appearance, you can
spray a light coat of lacquer over top of the pinned, graphited bridge
cap.  Doesn't inhibit string rendering and looks great!

This entire procedure was shared by Bill Spurlock in the PTJ and appears
in one of the reprint books available from the home office.

Regards,

Stan Kroeker
Registered Piano Technician