Terry and List -- I just did my first one of these two weeks ago, before this current thread started. It was a Sohmer "Primrose" spinet with three 1/16" to 3/32" separations, each about 7" to 9" long from the middle of the piano to the top. In my ignorance I was really worried about the plate, but I see now that they will apparently bend more than I thought. Don't know if I would have attempted one like you're doing, Terry. I like the idea of using clamps to pull the layers back together. I just depended on the new machine screws to do that. You're right about the soft wood crushing and the epoxy-filled cracks not pulling back together all the way. (I assume that those yellow/black Quik Lock trigger type clamps --not sure about name-- do not have enough power to do the job. Just wondered before I go out and buy more pipe clamps.) My mentor had me doing some things differently. In addition to replacing the eight screws across the top I drilled four more holes in the treble (where the separations were) for a total of 12 3/8" machine screws. The slot-head machine screws were inserted from the plate side for a cleaner look. I used a countersink on the new holes and also cleaned the original holes so that all heads were fairly flush with the plate surface. On the back side a paddle bit was used so that the washer and nut stayed below the back surface of the piano. The machine screws were measured and pre-cut in a bench vice using a saber saw with a metal cutting blade. Finally, metal caps were snapped into the holes in the back of the piano to hide the hardware. The piano tuned up nicely (for a spinet) and appears to be stable. I was pleased with the piano's appearence, too. The job was done in the customer's living room and took the better part of a day. Doug Garman
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