Thanks Jim, I will have fun. However.............."and the plate has not cracked (can we agree on this much?)". Well, I have a bit of concern that the plate could be broken right now (prior to repair) on the back side at the bend. Then when I pull the plate back toward the frame, the front of the plate at the bend will open up! It's kinda scary! I think Newton has a point - cast iron can bend a bit over a large area, but can't bend much over a small area. My area is small and it has a big bend. I think there is a reasonable chance that it is cracked on the back side right now. Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <JIMRPT@AOL.COM> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 5:45 PM Subject: Re: Pinblock/Frame Separation > > Well lets look at this from a fifth perspective......., i.e., the plate and > block were at one time attached firmly to the backframe and it did not crack > in that position......it has migrated to the present position of block/back > seperation and the plate has not cracked (can we agree on this much?) Given > this set of parameters, pulling the plate/block back into position 'should > not' cause the plate to crack. After all, the plate is just going back to a > position it has already been fastened in and returning it will impose no > extraordinary stresses to which it has not already been subjected. > (keeping in mind that the piano is said to be overly flat already) > > Now without regard to whether the downbearing is affected by this plate > shift, either way, the plate and block need to go back as close as possible > to the factories positioning, unless you desire to go into rescaling and > redesigning. I don't think I would bother doing that with a model 243. > > Doing this repair is simple from my viewpoint. > 1. Clean out the crack as well as is humanly possible. (use your favorite > method) > 2. Using your favorite type clamps pull the back/block&plate back together so > that the crack is as reduced in size as possible. > (using too many clamps is a virtue here so as to spread the pressure on the > plate widely..... pressure should be applied to each suceeding clamp a little > at the time rather than trying to snug one little section up as tightly as > possible before going on to the next one. Alternating tightening works well > for me.) > 3. Take out the screws holding, or not holding as the case may be:-), > everything together at the top of the plate, typically there will be 5 or 6. > 4. Using your favorite size drill thingee drill a hole completey through the > block and back assembly from the FRONT side. > 5. Insert the proper sized 'carriage bolt'/washer combination from the back > side and install a washer and nut loosely, that means don't snug it up yet, > from the front. > 6. After all bolts/washers have been installed loosen each nut so that it is a > prox three (3) full turns (depends on tpi) away from the plate. > 7. Loosen each clamp a little until most of the pressure is off the clamps, > the crack has reopened and the nuts are helping hold the plate/block. > 8. Pour/squeegee/spatula your favorite adhesive down into the crack. > 9. Reapply pressure to the clamps and draw the crack back together a little > at the time. (patience counts here and it won't take any longer) > 10. When the clamps are as tight as you feel needful, tighten down all the > nuts. > 11. Allow your adhesive of choice time to set up and remove clamps. > 12. Tune the thing and collect your well earned fee. > > Using the Nossaman method I left out all of the common sense stuff like don't > drill a hole in your hand or finger, don't clamp your pinkie too tight, don't > glue action parts together, don't make a mess and clean up the mess you make, > etc.... :-) > Have fun, Terry. > ŠJim Bryant (FL) > >
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