Inre splitting errors between hammer line and keydip, Bill asks: << Very interesting strategy. BTW, are you doing this for indiviudal hammers or section by section ? The individual hammers themselves. Before I replace the front punchings, I put a blue punching on every pin. This allows me to change not only the overall keydip downward, if necessary, but also provides a known quantity if I need to deepen the dip to get my aftertouch (AT?). If I pull the blue out, and still don't have enough aftertouch, the hammer goes up. If things get ugly, I go looking for specifics, starting with the knuckle and/or capstan. I have moved individual capstans before when the hammerline became too loose. (early 70-80's Mason & Hamlin was one like this, an action that was simply junk!) >If the former (bumpy hammerline), does this pose a problem for re-regulation later on after the hammer line (and everything else) settles under use, and you have to re-establish that hammer line? I've always found a straight line is easier to recall than a bumpy line<< The easiest way to reestablish the proper hammer line on one of my action regulations (after use) is to go back in and set the hammerline by aftertouch. (usually a resetting of the let-off precedes this, but that only takes 10 minutes in the piano). This usually entails putting a .050" punching on the front pin, pressing down on the key, and turning the capstan until the hammer just trips. They go back very close to where they were originally and the aftertouch is once again consistant. >>Finally, the dip is the best, most efficient place to put this error. I agree, and I'm always looking for the fastest, most consistant way of putting it there. Regards, Ed
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