in-the-home boring jig

[Tom Cole]

Wally,

Right, I clean forgot about cedar shanks. The screws usually come out
with only part of the shank and then I end up re-wetting the hole and
picking out the splinters with an awl, again cleaning up with the 7/32"
drill. 

I don't know what happens if you go for the 7/32" right away - it might
take a few swipes out of the maple (especially if it's a sharp bit) but
mostly remove the cedar. It might work better to drill in reverse mode
first until the bit is started in the hole. 

Tom

Wilsons wrote:
> 
> Tom,
>     I have used this method successfully most of the time for extracting the
> embedded ends of snapped hammer shanks from the hammer.  There is a situation
> in which it does not work well, however, and that is in the case of old cedar
> shanks.  At least in the eastern part of the country, these old cedar shanks
> seem to splinter rather than extract neatly.  I agree completely that 95% of
> the time, this method of wallpaper remover, heat, and extraction are the
> treatment of choice.  And for the other 5%, are there some alternatives that
> work really well?
-- 
Thomas A. Cole, RPT
Santa Cruz, CA
mailto:tcole@cruzio.com