cracked bridge

[Jon Page]

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At 10:40 PM 01/24/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>In reference to your delima, I just removed my first bass bridge for 
>duplication.  Sending it to Schaff.  It is a stock piano in a music store.  
>They will make a new one for about $ 110 .  I wanted to asked the list for 
>advice on the best and easisest ways of removing bass bridges.  I have 
>several more to do.  Thanks,  Bill Prindle
> 

In my opinion, it is a waste of money. If you can remove a bridge cap and glue
it back on, you can make one. 

I don't see how anyone can actually make a bridge to fit a piano from a
pattern
or the original without height dimensions. Also the pin location was probably
wrong
to begin with and was the reason for failure.

Bass Bridges Made Simple:

Record down bearing, remove strings, re-record db.
This may tell you a few whys and where-fores.

Run a thread from the v-bar to the hitchpin/plate area. A spacer on the plate
(such as a nickle) will help determine bridge height. This will set required
db.
Measure thread height at the bridge from sounding board on each end & the
middle.

Calculate material dimensions:
If entire body select suitable material for height required or if it has an
apron,
 measure apron height from sb and subtract that from overall height.
If just a cap, route the bridge surface to accomodate thickness of stock.

Shape stock to contour, caps are made slightly oversized and flush-routed
once glued. I generally use epoxy and fill the old holes in the process.

Here's the part which can not be relied upon from samples:
 The wire should be set in a straight line broken only by the bridge pins.
 This is side bearing.
Run a thread from agraffe/v-bar pin to hitch pin and mark this line on the
bridge surface. Repeat for each string. (On pianos without definate
terminations
near the tuning pins, make a pattern of the string placement before you remove
the strings. This will help with marking and replacing the strings),
Scribe a line for front and rear pin lines. Center punch the intersections
and 
drill for pin holes.
 Chances are that these holes were not drilled in the correct position at the 
 factory. Relying on the original is duplicating previous errors.

Install pins, strings.

Quartersawn stock is best. I even use pin block stock for some uprights caps.

I also have an image file of pressure application devices for glueing loose
ribs
and new caps. Available on request. They are made from PVC pipe, an end cap,
a spring and a length of dowel. They are self-compensating. Nifty.

If you don't have woodworking capacity or a millwork nearby then at least
drill
the pin holes yourself. Don't forget to plug the old holes under the old cap.

regards,



Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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