Stringing

[Brian Lawson]

Well I guess if you dont ask you'll never know. Jon's method is new to me.
How I learnt in the UK was to have the wire in a round canister with about a
1" round hole in the top for the wire to come out when pulled and a smaller
hole in the bottom so that a dowel/shank can go through. The dowel sits in a
block of wood which is clamped to the right side of the piano (grand, left
when doing an upright). As you pull the wire the canister spins around so as
to avoid twisting/bending wire. Also the wire is coming out of the inside of
the coil.

>From there the wire goes through the aggraffe (if the piano has them), wire
into pin and turned 3 times to put coil onto pin, bang in pin, pull wire
back and around hitch pin (or cut if it is a eye and make one) and back to
next pin, I measure 3 fingers from back of hole, coil and bang in pin.

Comments?


Brian Lawson
IC PTG, MPT
Johannesburg, South Africa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Page" <jonpage@mediaone.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stringing


> At 10:19 PM 01/21/2000 -0800, you wrote:
> >List,
> >
> >I am restringing soon and thought I'd get some input on
> >different styles.  I remember a Nick Gravange (spelling) class I
> >took where he had his wire in a typical 1 lb steel case with
> >cover.  He placed it on a small box.  The wire went from the
> >case through a piece with a small hole down to the piano.  He
> >would pull the wire down through the agraffe or such up to the
> >pin, coil it in a small block and drive it into the block.  Then
> >guide the other end around the hitch pin and back to the pin
> >for rough cutting.  I am intrigued with this method but do it
> >differently.  I pre-cut all my wire on the long side.  Both ends
> >go into the agraffes or such are pulled with some regular
> >tension with a gauge and clipped.  Then each is coiled and
> >driven into the block.
> >
> >Any other techniques?
> >
> >David I.
> >David Ilvedson, RPT
> >Pacifica, CA
> >ilvey@jps.net
> >
>
> David,
> The later technique is what I have been doing for years and will not
change.
>
> By precutting the wire, making a bend for the hitch pin and inserting the
ends
> through the agraffes; you are reducing the chances for twisting the wire.
>
> A gage for cutting the wire maintains a consistent becket alignment when
the
> string is at pitch. It also helps in the corners where 'four fingers' can
get
> scrunched.
> Useing '4fingers' is a quick method but unless you are a practiced
stringer a
> gage
> is the best insurance.
>
> I have an image file and info sheet on making a wire cutting gage if
anyone is
> interested, I call it the Becket Tool.
>
> Another benefit of knowing your beckets will be regimented is during
chipping.
> While lifting the wire with a hook, turn the pin until the becket is
pointing
> between
> 12:00 & 1:00. Next chipping pull to 2:00. Next to 3:00 (if your gage is
> calibrated for
> this execution). From there it's tuning as usual. Chipping by becket
placement
> is
> a lot quicker than plucking, listening & turning the pin.
>
> Neatness counts,
>
>
>
>
> Jon Page,   piano technician
> Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
> mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~