Refinishing with Water-Base

[Farrell]

Dear List:

Recently I posted on some of my problems and successes refinishing a piano
with Enduro polyurethane. I have had recent problems while rubbing out the
finish (like major!), and will in fact be re-topcoating the piano with
Pianolac in the next week or so. The paragraphs below are pasted in here
from other communications I have recently had in private posts. But because
I expressed some strong positive comments about my experience with Enduro, I
am posting this as suggested by Jeannie Grassi, RPT (Assistant Editor, Piano
Technicians Journal) mailto:jgrassi@silverlink.net  (I agree - good
suggestion). Anyone else have input related to breaching layers of
water-base paint during final flattening and rub-out?

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---------------------------------
> >
> > Sent: February 10, 2000
> > Re: Piano Lac vs Enduro
> > I am using Enduro Polyurethane on my first piano now. I have had
problems
> > with orange peel. I spoke to their expert the other day. He recommended
> that
> > I spray closer & thin up to 20% with Enduro conditioner. I did that. It
> > works excellent now. I love everything about it. It sands so easily. The
> > finish is rock hard. Their clear grain filler is out-of-this-world.  I
> have
> > not tried the other.
> >
> > I highly recommend getting their waterbase polyurethane line rather than
> > their less durable waterbase lacquer line (I believe they will recommend
> > this also).
> >
> > And don't forget their Transparent Woodgrain Filler - can't live (or at
> > least refinish easily) without it! I've never used anything like it.
It's
> > too cool for words.  The stuff is sort of like yogurt in consistency. It
> > dries absolutely clear. I even put some on an ebony job after one coat
of
> > black. It dried perfectly clear. You spread it on with a plastic blade.
It
> > will not dry for at least five minutes, so you can work it in really
well
> > and you have plenty of time to squeegee off any excess.
> > You can mix a tint/stain into it if you wish. Normally, with an ebony
> finish
> > (like I am just finishing now), you do the grain filler and sand smooth
> > (sands super easy), then apply top coats. With a natural finish one
would
> > normally stain first then apply transparent grain filler.  You have lots
> of
> > time to work it into the grain and get it real smooth with a blade. I
> sanded
> > my last filler with 220 grit. It went real quick and did not sand
through
> > the filler. Good luck.
> >
> > Enduro products are available from: Compliant Spray Systems; 3011 Vina
> Vial;
> > San Clemente, CA  92673; (949) 366-2322; (800) 696-0615.


> > Sent: February 20, 2000
> > Re: Piano Lac vs Enduro
> For what it is worth, the item below was my refinishing experience up to,
> but not including, polishing out the final finish. I started to hand rub
out
> the finish the other day by wet sanding with 2,000-grit wet/dry paper.
With
> only light sanding (not even enough to get the finish totally flat) I went
> through a layer(s) of the polyurethane topcoat. When a topcoat layer is
> breached, the result is a silvery outline at the layer contact. It will
not
> sand or buff out. It's appearance is totally unacceptable.
>
> I am going to sand off most of the topcoat and get it real flat. Then I
will
> apply either 6 coats of Enduro polyurethane black topcoat in one day, or 6
> coats of black PianoLac topcoat, either in one or more days (I need to
> consult further with manufacturer). I believe one of these topcoat
> application schedules will result in a sufficiently thick topcoat that can
> be sanded flat and rubbed to desired finish, and will not exhibit the
layer
> breaching problem.



> > Sent: February 28, 2000
> > Re: Piano Lac vs Enduro

Hi Jeannie:

I would not recommend Enduro now as I did previously. I have an idea it may
be great for someone that does not rub out the final finish - but may not be
good if one does rub out. I talked today with their expert and he was
surprised that I was having the problem of breaching paint layers. The
layering problem appears common to most water-base paints. He says that he
can sand the final coat flat with 1,000 grit wet paper and not breach a
layer - hence no problem. He agreed that it sounded like I was putting on a
heavy-enough coat. He could not figure out why I was having the problem. I
have tried three separate pieces - test boards, bench lid, and soundboard -
sanding with 2,000 grit wet paper - breached layers on all of them.

I am ordering Pianolac materials today. I am going to sand the piano down
(taking much of the Enduro off) and apply topcoats of Pianolac per
manufacturers recommendations. The main claim (that has attracted my
attention) Pianolac makes is that sprayed coats bond in such a way that one
will not see any layering upon hard sanding of final coat. This is what I
want & need. I am ordering today and sanding today and tomorrow. I will
likely be spraying in about one week. Flattening and rub-out will follow
about one week after that. So, I really will not have a final opinion until
two to three weeks from now.

In summary, I don't know if Enduro is any more problematic than any other
water-base paint at this point. The review/tests that appeared in a recent
issue of Fine Woodworking Magazine indicated that it was superior to the
other six-or-so water-base paints they tried. I will have a definitive
opinion within 3 weeks whether I had better luck with Pianolac! I know I
won't have anything before your 8-day deadline. Let me know if you want more
info after I have rubbed-out the Pianolac finish. Good luck!

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com