The Plate

[bases-loaded@juno.com]

Terry -

Have you tried using shellac?  It is not water-based, but denatured
alcohol is really not very objectionable.  Shellac will take the powder
just fine, but does tend to dry very quickly - a little too quickly to
keep a good wet "edge".  Contact Homestead Finishing for their product
called "Shellac-Wet", which is essentially a flow-out additive for
shellac.  You can also order the shellac from them in flake form; I would
recommend the white shellac or dewaxed extra pale for this application,
spraying a couple passes using a 1 - 1 1/2 lb. cut.  After app. 2 hours
dry time, lightly scuff and then you could top coat with Enduro's clear
poly, which is what you are currently using, yes?

One caveat.... when top coating with ANY poly over shellac, it MUST  BE
DEWAXED SHELLAC, or you will have serious craters!  Both of the above
grades I mentioned above are dewaxed.  I have sprayed many kinds of poly
over dewaxed shellac literally hundreds of times with no adhesion
problems whatsoever.

Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com

On Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:23:56 -0500 "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
writes:
> I had been using bronze powder mixed in clear water-base 
> polyurethane. I
> tried, tried, & tried. It just gets too wierd. I finally got a 
> couple of
> pretty good coats on just to watch it turn kinda darker (somewhat 
> black) in
> some areas after several days. I guess the metal must react with the 
> water
> in the water-base & oxidize. I can't stand the thought of spraying
> solvent-based laquer. I also tried a can of spray paint - BAD, never 
> again.
> I'm still looking for something that doesn't stink and I don't have 
> to use
> nasty solvents to clean up with.
> 
> Terry Farrell
> Piano Tuning & Service
> Tampa, Florida
> mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bases-loaded@juno.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:52 PM
> Subject: Re: The Plate
> 
> 
> > If you have spray equipment, spray the plate with bronze powder 
> suspended
> > in lacquer.  If there are fish eyes from contaminants, spray at 
> least one
> > pass of a 1 lb. cut of shellac over the problem area before top 
> coating
> > with the bronze colored lacquer.  Top the color coats with 1-2 
> coats of
> > clear lacquer.  I like satin.
> >
> > If using spray cans, you may have better luck with a 'metallic 
> bronze' or
> > 'metallic gold' enamel.  The lacquer in retail spray cans is 
> second rate,
> > at best.  Again, shellac will provide a great barrier coat should
> > adhesion problems from contaminants be present.
> >
> > Mark Potter
> > bases-loaded@juno.com
> >
> > On Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:48:31 -0500 "Farrell" 
> <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> > writes:
> > > When you find out what to spray it with, let me know. If you 
> need to
> > > know
> > > what not to spray it with, just drop me a note. I'm ready for 
> about
> > > my 10th
> > > coat of somethingorother on this plate - hopefully looking 
> better
> > > than the
> > > last 9.
> > >
> > > Terry Farrell
> > > Piano Tuning & Service
> > > Tampa, Florida
> > > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Martin Dubow" <tuner@mediaone.net>
> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 4:21 PM
> > > Subject: The Plate
> > >
> > >
> > > > Now that I've got all the strings off this piano, I'd like to
> > > improve
> > > > the appearance
> > > > of the plate. What should I use to clean it with?  If I decide 
> to
> > > spray
> > > > it, what do I spray
> > > > it with? Is there a gold paint that comes in a spray can?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > Martin
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>