In a message dated 2/20/00 5:58:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, piano_tunertx@yahoo.com writes: << I was able to remove the hammer butt without removing the action (thanks to my long flange screw screwdriver). Not having arms like an octopus, I don't think I'll be able to get the hammer butt back in without removing the action. >> If you got it out, you can get it back in. It is difficult, yes, and you may want to allow 20-30 minutes for it but it would probably involve more than that to take the entire action out. I have removed many spinet actions and serviced them. It is possible to do this quickly and efficiently but it does take practice, like anything else. If you decide to go the action removal route, you should detach the grommets from the keys and lift the keys out and place them in order on the floor or a table. Have a vacuum handy to clean out the inevitable dirt and debris. Don't belabor the point just as in tuning. Do everything as quickly as possible, keeping your concentration on the task at hand: detach the grommet, lift out the key. Once the keys are out of the way, it will be easy to detach the action and lift it out. Some technicians tie up the loose stickers but I was shown at the Kimball factory way back in 1982 that this is unnecessary. With the action detached from its mountings, simply pull upward and slightly backward and the whole thing will lift out and the stickers will fall freely downward. When placing the action on the work surface, gently lower the action so that the stickers touch first and fold under the rest of the action as you set it down. There is one exception tom this, a certain style of Balwin Spinet action where I use either string or long rubber bands to keep the sticker guide rail attached to the stickers. It is really a mess if these two come apart. It would be foolish and negligent to not tighten all of the flange screws once you have the action out. Budget 20 minutes for this and inform the customer of the serendipitous bonus that is part of taking the action out. Sometimes it is preventative maintenance, often it is sorely needed maintenance. You can also correct any uneven spacing and file hammers if it seems beneficial. Many technicians use an action cradle to work on the action but again, I find that unneacessary. With the keys out, you can often use the keybed as a work surface. Just use some rags or other pads to keep any loose and dangling parts or the action support mountings from marring the case. In many cases, if you replace the action, take up all lost motion, throw a punching under any obviously low keys (and please, *under* the balance rail cloth punching, not on top of it), and give each let off button 2 half twists counterclockwise, you will have a piano that functions far better than it did. Be sure to check for blocking hammers and fine adjust the let-off if you have time. Spinet action let off should be no closer than 1/8". Sometimes, a thin shim to prop up the rest rail and a little further lost motion adjustment is needed to get adequate aftertouch. But don't over do this. Having a minimal amount of aftertouch but having the hammer checking fairly closely will make any spinet piano play and repeat very well. I also routinely use the "Wet Lube" that I get from Schaff piano supply to spray both the keypins and the key bushings before installing the keys. This helps them go in easier and practically eliminates the need for key easing in many cases. It boils down to the old, "Well if we got to take it apart this much to get at the problem, then we might as well do some other maintenance besides". It is one way for both you and the customer to benefit. Good luck, Bill Bremmer RPT Madison, Wisconsin
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