Gluing sound board cracks back to ribs.

[Jon Page]

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Ric,
The toggles are sometimes hard to install and harder to remove.
The best repair for this is the screw application you mentioned.

Don't try to get too fancy.  The toggles look far worse than a screw.

Regards,

Jon Page


At 07:59 PM 02/12/2000 -0600, you wrote:
>The problem is a cracked soundboard, and one side of the crack has
>pulled away from the rib about as far as to slip a business card
>through if it were cut in half.    This is in a full sized upright,
>player piano actually.  I must make any repair from the rib side.  
> 
>       The repair I am most familiar is drilling a pilot hole through the
>rib and SB, then drilling a body hole through the rib, stopping the
>bit with ground down hack saw blade, or old palette knife. Then
>smearing glue into the crack with the thin blade and running the
>screw in. 
>       Schaff (new catalog) offers a "sound board toggle" p 82.    Do I
>understand  these are left in the piano after the repair is
>completed?  Or is there a way to remove them and fill the access
>hole with a dowel? On p. 62 is a "soundboard repair clamp".  (wire,
>locking nut and wingnut) But this looks like one must have access
>to both sides of the soundboard.  Is this correct?   Both of these
>appeal to me because it looks like they can draw the seperation
>together with more strength than a screw through a 1/4 inch of
>spruce.  
>       If any one has used these repairs and can advise, I would be most
>grateful.  Or perhaps there is something out there I am not aware
>of.   I know of the repair in Reblitz using thin bolts and washers
>but  that needs access to both sides which I do not have. On p.
>128, illus. 7-14 is the exact problem I am facing. One side of the
>crack has curled away, the other seems intact.  Should I screw down
>the other side to be safe?  ---ric 
>  
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