doping pinblock/piano upside down

John M. Formsma jformsma@dixie-net.com
Wed, 9 Feb 2000 22:38:20 -0600


Richard,

Thanks very much for this informative post. I will use your suggestion of
foam blocks. What you said about the rim may be a concern. Would supporting
the plate on blocks of wood offset the possibility of rim separation?

Best regards,

John Formsma
Blue Mountain, MS



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
Of Richard Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 9:11 AM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: doping pinblock/piano upside down


Although I have never done what you're proposing, I routinely turn every
piano upside down in the course of soundboard and structure repair. It's
also a great opportunity to rebuild the trapwork and lyre without having to
lay on your back. When I do this the plate is out of course and turning the
piano over does no harm and is something I can do easily myself (with help
from the hoist on 7's and 9's).

I would strongly caution against turning over an old small grand of less
than highest quality because the rim may not stand the force. If there is
any rim separation (which there most likely is even if you can't see it)
turning it over will make it worse.

As for the gluing, I use the CA in my repairs while the piano is upside down
and I can confirm that it will run where ever it darn well pleases. The
qualities that allow it to so effectively make the repair ensure that it
will also do some collateral repair. There is undoubtedly some delaminations
and splits in the old block and the glue will find those first and will
quite likely end up dripping down the tuning pins.

If you chose to do it I recommend using the foam blocks used for carrying
canoes on the tops of cars. They have a groove that fits nicely over the rim
are about the right density for holding it off the floor and your fingers. I
have 6 of them and use them all for larger pianos. The straight side is on a
skid. I start the blocks on the curve side opposite where the straight side
begins to curve and continue on to the front. Remember, I have the plate out
so you'll need more per foot of piano size. I also lasso the treble end of
the stretcher with a strap so as the piano approaches the floor I can lower
it with the strap rather than squat. Of course you can't do this with the
plate in, and even if you could sneak the strap between the block and
stretcher I wouldn't because of the extra weight on that joint. Perhaps
around the block and plate will work IF the plate is screwed through the
block into the rim. This is the perfect example of rebuilder's conundrum.
The better built pianos are much easier to handle the type of work the
lesser pianos need.

Take the lid and the hinges off the rim. Put a tarp down first. Use at least
3 people.

--
Richard Anderson
Anderson Piano Service
mailto:tknostf@foxvalley.net
http://users.FoxValley.net/~tknostf/



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