Well, I do something similar in a situation like this. When I have one where I think I'm going to run into trouble. I tune it just like I would aurally. I strip it off and tune single strings just to pitch. (OK, maybe 10 cents sharp.) then I tune all the left strings, then all the right strings, then the bass with the strip in. At that point, I can go for my regular pitch raise sequence without pulling the strings up an un-Godly amount. Seems best for the piano, and minimizes breakage. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 7:02 PM Subject: Different Pitch Raising Sequence > When raising pitch on any piano in the past I have used my SAT in the manner > described in the SAT manual - A0 to C88 (I always do unisons as I go). When > raising pitch on an old piano where string breakage is a real concern, I > have been additionally concerned because the hi treble is usually the region > of greatest string breakage potential. Especially because when going A0 to > C88 - lets say on a piano that was originally 100 cents flat - by the time > you get to C88, it is now 130 cents (or so) flat - thus increasing the need > for overpull and risk of breaking. > > Today I raised pitch on a 1914 Lester upright. It started out at 100 cents > flat. There were several broken strings in the top half-octave. Clearly, > there was some question whether the piano was going to take A440 with all > strings intact. I hate the thought of starting in the bass (no overpull of > course - just to pitch), going through the whole piano, just to find out > that strings start breaking at G6. > > So what I did was start at C88 (figuring if they break here, I can stop > right away!), just pulling up to target pitch - no overpull (in this case I > just used a generic tuning - a 52" Baldwin tuning). I went through the > treble (C88 to G5) backwards like this, then did the bass (second most > likely area for strings to break). No broken strings. I assumed at that > point the piano would do fine at A440. I completed the tenor to pitch, did > one more pass on the treble (G5 & up) with just a 4 cent positive pitch > reset (did my FAC at this point and looked at a few Double Octave Beats), > then went through the whole piano from A0 to C88 using the SAT in > pitch-raise mode with appropriate overpulls. > > Using this sequence, I feel that I found out whether the piano would go to > A440 very early in the process. A minimal amount of pitch change occurred in > the hi treble (thus minimizing string break potential). The hi treble was > not ever lowered artificially in pitch prior to raising, and minimum > overpull was used (the last pass with overpull saw the hi-treble start out > around 5 to 10 cents flat). No part of the piano was more than about 15 > cents flat (tenor area) when overpull was used. A total of 2-1/3 passes > resulted in the piano with a cent or two (well, maybe three or four on a few > notes!) of desired pitch. One more pass for a good tuning. > > Seems to me this is a good way to approach the piano with an elevated > potential for popping strings during a pitch raise. Any thoughts? Are there > any procedures that others have found to be valuable? > > Terry Farrell > Piano Tuning & Service > Tampa, Florida > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com >
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