Installing grand backchecks

Graeme Harvey gharvey@netsource.co.nz
Wed, 30 Aug 2000 19:44:11 +1200


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Willem wrote....
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<Greame. I guess I'll have to say it again: Fly me down there, and I'll =
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you. :)

<To remove and install back checks, with wires, I find it works best if =
you=20
put the key in a vice. Remove the wire with a pair of side cutters, but =
use a=20
small block of wood as the fulcrum point, instead of the key itself. =
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will pull the wire out much easier and it won't elongate the hole. .=20

To install the new backcheck, I use a soft face hammer to gently tap the =
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wire back in. As far as height, measure the old one, and use a jig of =
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sort, (a hammershank with a line on it) to determine the correct height =
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the new one. >
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Hi Willem,=20
You could fly down and do both jobs at once (valuing pianos from a =
previous enquiry). :)
In this particular case, though you are probably not going to get here =
on time, as I hope to complete this job in a few days.

The new checks I've been supplied with are fitted to the wires already, =
and my query was how to install them complete without removing the =
wires. Is your method, using a soft faced hammer intended to tap the top =
of the check itself or just the wire?
How do some of you others approach this?

The other issue of check height relates to a re-designed action, lowered =
hammer centre height etc etc, so the old check height may not be the =
best position, though could be a close guide. Sorry I didn't mention =
this before. (Pity, you could've stayed a bit longer in NZ to solve this =
one too)

My thinking is that for the most efficient checking, the best situation =
is to have the most hammer tail surface area in contact.
Therefore, if the ideal checking distance is say, 16 mm from the string =
then the top of the check could be set so tat the hammer tail is well =
down the check leather.

Does this make sense?
Any other thoughts on this, any rules of thumb (or rule of thumbs) here?

Regards

Graeme Harvey
New Plymouth=20
New Zealand


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